Motor Mount Knocking/Vibration Help (or maybe Control Arm Bushing?) - Mazda Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-13-2016, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Question Motor Mount Knocking/Vibration Help (or maybe Control Arm Bushing?)

I'm hoping for some help with my 95/96 Millenia S. 130k miles but before this year, the car sat for 8 years (only moved to mow grass).

My car had the symptoms of bad motor mounts and when I inspected the mounts it was clear that all of them were bad.
After reading for hours through the archives I figured I didn't need the oil-damped mounts and went with the cheaper solid rubber mounts (rock auto) but didn't have the time to install them.

I let the vibration/thunking get to the point where the symptoms presented themselves to some level at almost all rates of acceleration before breaking down and having a shop install them.

The bad motor mount symptoms were gone completely for the next 100 miles but have returned.
They currently present strongest while accelerating straight or on a left-hand corner but are still present on right-hand corners.

When held in drive or reverse and with the accelerator pressed there is zero noise but the motor and transmission mounts do have a little more give than I expected. The transmission mount shifts forward and back about 3/4 of an inch in either direction from rest, maybe it broke already?

Based on the archives I think it could also be the driver side control arm bushing.

Help please? How do you check a control arm bushing?

Last edited by rannoch; 12-14-2016 at 12:04 PM. Reason: the issue does present on right hand corners
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-14-2016, 08:10 AM
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Hi rannoch,

I'm curious when the last time was that you replaced the front lateral links (mid control arms). The heim joint bushing generally wears out in them and then you will hear a rattle/thumping vibration at lower speeds going over bumps & uneven pavement. You can confirm that they are worn out by jacking up front of car and attempt to move wheel back and forth at the 3 & 9 o'clock location on wheel. If they're bad, there will be play and you ought to be able to hear the thump.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-14-2016, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyjockey70 View Post
Hi rannoch,

I'm curious when the last time was that you replaced the front lateral links (mid control arms). The heim joint bushing generally wears out in them and then you will hear a rattle/thumping vibration at lower speeds going over bumps & uneven pavement. You can confirm that they are worn out by jacking up front of car and attempt to move wheel back and forth at the 3 & 9 o'clock location on wheel. If they're bad, there will be play and you ought to be able to hear the thump.
Lateral links are the links used for alignment? I replaced those in August when I had the car aligned because the driver side link was bent and the car could not be brought within spec.

These are what I replaced:

I jacked up the car last night after posting and wasn't able to create any noise from suspension components.
---
Edit:
After driving the car this morning to work.
The thunking can be heard and felt with your feet on the floor/pedals but there is no shimmy or issues with the steering wheel (so the car feels fine).
Almost certainly coming from the driver's side of the car.
Going over small bumps made some noise.

I can't tell if the thunking is dependent on acceleration or motor speed.
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Last edited by rannoch; 12-14-2016 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Additional feedback.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-14-2016, 04:00 PM
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Well at that mileage if you never changed the mounts I can guarantee all 4 are tossed. In my case the bracket that holds the bottom mount was broken, making very funny noises. And no low quality butt mounts are no good. Where did you read it? I went with all OEM and now after 70k miles I have some broken cracked I suppose.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-14-2016, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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I could dig up the old threads but different folks talked about the shitty rubber mounts being bad because they transmit vibration from the motor but not about them failing immediately after installation.

That said, it was mostly a financial decision.
This Millenia essentially fell into my lap and I have no plans to spend over half the price of a decent used car on motor mounts.

Anyway, I'll pick up my ramps, inspection camera, and tools this weekend to see if the mounts failed.

I've always had good luck with rubber Beck/Arnley products and I figured that this would be no different.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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If the shop failed to install the rubber bushings on either side of the transmission mount, would that cause the mount to fail?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 07:01 PM
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I'm reading this thread with interest because I also have a 95 millenia with bad motor mounts. With the hood raised, I can see the motor move a HUGE amount when I put the car in gear. It's a 22 year old car with 200K, so.. Regarding suspension. Yes, your pics show the lateral links. My originals lasted 17 years. I replaced them 4 years ago with aftermarket Chinese. One just failed and I just put on another replacement (Moog this time, though also imported), so we'll see how long that one lasts. The first thing that I had to replace, though was the upper "leading link". It was making a huge racket on bumps. It's easy to see if it's bad by looking at the rubber on the ball joint at the very top of the wheel well. It it's shot, your leading link is most likely toast. Fairly easy to replace with the right loaner tools and PB blaster. I too don't want to spend a fortune on motor mounts, so will be interested to see what you find...

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196,000 mi.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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Lateral link on the passenger side is still whatever was on there.
Lateral link on the driver side was replaced with one from Dorman, 522-291.

I got under the car today and got my inspection camera in there.
All the motor mounts are unbroken but I have a few questions about the CV joints/axles I saw down there.

I also disconnected the stabilizer bar link on the driver side.
First test drive: vibration was still there but not on mild acceleration.
Second test drive (to get transmission fluid): no vibration at all

I'm going to order new links and continue to drive the car to see if the issues come back once I've installed the new ones.

Are the exposed splines between the half shaft and CV joint in the picture normal?
On the other axle, is the oil seepage probably coming from a damaged/dried out transmission/axle seal?

Edit:
The knock came back this morning when I stopped harder than usual for a red light...
It went away after going over some train tracks.
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Last edited by rannoch; 12-21-2016 at 12:20 PM. Reason: It's not gone completely.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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I can use a screwdriver/pry bar to barely shift the lower control arm bushing (a mm or two), but no thunks or anything obvious.
But... attached is what the upper link (control arm?) looks like (I used the screwdriver to make the rubber degradation more apparent).

More things on my list to replace.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 10:32 PM
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Yep, that looks like where your clunk is coming from. Just put some PB blaster on there a few days before as there has been people who have tried to remove the nuts and have twisted them completely off, or have broke the stud off from it rusting through the wheel well. Just a WARNING.
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2002 BMW 530iA Sterling/black 95,000 miles
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1993 Mazda 626 2.5L ATX 235,000 miles - SOLD
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