Trunk and Gas buitton - Mazda Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2003, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe someone has an idea on this. I have been dealing w/ this for about a year now. The button on the driver side door for the trunk and the gas lid doesn't work. I took it in and they looked at it for about 30 minutes and couldn't figure it out. They said to bring it back and at $80 an hour they could figure it out.

I don't even think about going to the trunk to pop the lid when I need to get gas , but a fix would be defiantely good.

Any ideas let me know.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2003, 09:02 PM
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Isn't there a button in the glovebox that locks out the gas/trunk buttons for valet parking? If not i would think the switch's are disconnected in the door since both are inop.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-31-2003, 12:51 AM
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emperus:

Try mazdaguy suggestion. If you still have problems, see if you can open the trunk with your remote. If you do, it means that the actuator is working fine, and the trunk relay too. That will narrow things down to the actual button. If your trunk does not open with the keyless remote, then it could be a fuse (I bet you already checked this out), the actuator (hopefully not), the relay, or still the button.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-31-2003, 03:00 AM
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bair's got the right idea
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-31-2003, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Hey,

Yeah I can pop the trunk w/ the remote and have checked all the fuses and the button in the glove compartment. The probllem is both the fuel lid and trunk are broken so I am assuming it has something to do w/ the wiring going to the button or the button itself.

I didn't think it is the button cuz it is hard to beleive that both buttons would break at the same time. But I guess it depends on how the button is made. I am goign to try to test it with the voltmeter tommorrow, it would be good to know what type of signals are used.

Does anyone have access to the wiring diagram for this car. I found soem diagrams at some site but it seems that the wiring for that button is not there.

thanx
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-31-2003, 08:11 PM
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The lockout button in the glovebox is most likely the problem. It's a very simple switch.You could try cleaning the contacts in it. The 929 had the same setup and that was the problem on 100% of them that i've worked on.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-01-2003, 01:30 AM
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check the glove box
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-01-2003, 04:46 AM
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i would open up the door panel and see if the buttons got disconnected. both share the same connector. plus, the button in the glove box disables only the trunk button, not both. valet parkers aren't going to steal priceless possessions out of your gas tank!

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-01-2003, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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MazdaGuy, on those 929's was BOTH the gas lid and trunk not working? I ddin't think the lockout button controlled the gas lid. Let me know cuz checking that button wouldn't be too bad.

I already did open the door a while back but nothing was disconnected. The only positive is that both don't work so I just have to trace it to any places where they are both connected.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-02-2003, 12:54 AM
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The trunk release & fuel door release switches in the drivers side door panel are in reality a combined switch module. It gets a common hot (+12v) feed from a cabin fuse that also feeds the vanity mirror lights, interior lights, courtesy lights, trunk light - among others. So, if these lights are working, it is not a fuse problem.

This combination switch has three wires going to it, and they connect to it with a single connector. The common +12v hot feed from the fuse is a blue wire with a yellow stripe. The wire feeding +12v from the switch back to the trunk release solenoid (when the trunk release button is pushed in) is brown with a white stripe. (This wire goes back through the switch in the glove box, which disables it if desired). The wire that feeds +12v from the switch back to the gas door solenoid (when the gas door release button is pushed in) is brown with a red stripe.

To test, remove the door inner trim panel. (If you need directions, let me know). The switch will have a three-wire connector going to it. Unplug it, and test the blue wire with a yellow stripe (common +12v feed) using a voltmeter or test light to be sure it is hot. If it is not hot, the problem is in the wiring going from the door to the cabin fuse box in the driver's kick panel. If everything else in the door that is electric is working, it is unlikely there is a problem with the harness.

If it is hot, carefully jumper between the hot feed wire and each of the other wires (one at a time). The gas door and the trunk should pop open when each's respective wire is fed +12v from the common feed wire.

The most likely scenario is that you will find the switch disconnected from its wires when you get the trim panel off.

NOTE: The wire colors are from the wiring diagram for a 1996 Millenia. The colors may change (but probably not) for later Millenias (up to 2002), but the switch itself and the concept of a common +12v that is passed through each of two switches built into a common module will be the same. My 2001 Millenia has the exact switch my 1996 Millenia had.
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