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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2009, 10:43 PM
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96-96 Plastic Projector Headlights 97-00 Glass reflector headlights 01-02 Plastic halogen projector lights. All 95-00 glass projector fogs, 01-02 glass reflector fogs.
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<span style="font-family:Verdana">2001 Mazda Millenia L R.I.P
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2009, 11:20 PM
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Power/Economy switch is actually underneath the accelerator pedal. Press the gas to the floor for "power mode."

Bose never made the headunit, just the speakers and amps. I think the same Panasonic HU just got branded Bose a model year or two after '95 to give a better visual indication of the Bose option's presence. I have the same HU marked "Panasonic," (I don't have the Bose option) but I've seen the same one marked Bose before. It powers all 5 speakers on its own.[/b]

Nope... 95 I have has Bose HU made by Bose with cd player in trunk (Bose option), my understanding is indash cd is panasonic sometimes marked Bose,
BTW volume control is crazed some times you cant turn it up or down off or on..kind of smacked it once was so loud, now seems to be the only way to get it to work when wont..found a site wants $125.00 to fix... and you pull it out and send it in...
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2009, 03:37 PM
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Here are instructions that worked for 2000 S ME:

1. Open driver's door.
2. Turn ignition key to ON (not to ACC as some instructions may state).
3. Turn key back off and REMOVE KEY COMPLETELY from ignition.
Do this two more times, removing key completely each time. Do NOT put key back into ignition after third time. Keep it in your hand.
4. Press light switch button at lower back corner of driver's door jam THREE times, making sure that inside lights flicker on and off. (This switch is under the soft black rubber cover. Some instructions say to open and close driver's door three times which should have the same effect but never did for me. Pushing the button did do the trick).
5. Wait a few seconds and the car should chime. It might take several seconds before you get the chime, same chime that indicates door open with key in ignition or seat belt is not fastened.
6. Press the LOCK button on the remote being programmed TWICE.
Wait for the chime again and when you hear it press the LOCK button on the other remotes TWICE. It may take several seconds but you should hear the chime, probably several chimes.
After this final chime, test all remotes for proper function. These remotes work far better than any other remotes I have owned over the years.
You can program up to 4 remotes total according to Mazda.

If the above still does not work then lock all 4 doors with the master door lock button on driver's door. Unlock only the driver's door with the single door button, leaving the other three doors locked. Swing open driver's door and then proceed as above.[/b]
My duplicate key remote does not work. Is their a solution ?
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...It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2010, 09:24 PM
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The power/economy switch is sort of a misnomer. There's a large round "button" on the firewall that gets depressed when the accelerator is pressed to wide open throttle. You can reach behind the accelerator pedal and press it in manually when the car is parked. Press the accelerator slowly through its entire range with the engine off...you can feel the last half-inch of travel has a bit of initial resistance...that's "power mode."[/b]

On most of the forums I frequent there is a listing of basic information....How too DIY information from changing your plugs to your your fuel pump and everything in between. Am I missing something here or is there no info in the Millenia. The hard-copies of the information are nearly impossible to come by for under 150.00 bucks and one would hope to find some help on these forums -- but I haven't. Am I missing something here, please point me in the right direction. Otherwise, if there is anyone with the ability to add this information and pin it to the topic or ------- if you know a link to the information at a reasonable price -- please post the address. Right now, we don't have a lot going for us when it comes to helping people with millenia's other than some chat -- lets get into some meat -- some real how too's.... Thanks for baring with me through my drama....
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2010, 10:31 PM
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MillyOwners Website:http://milleniatech.net/
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by millyowner View Post
The power/economy switch is sort of a misnomer. There's a large round "button" on the firewall that gets depressed when the accelerator is pressed to wide open throttle. You can reach behind the accelerator pedal and press it in manually when the car is parked. Press the accelerator slowly through its entire range with the engine off...you can feel the last half-inch of travel has a bit of initial resistance...that's "power mode."
That button is like solid, how would you press it ?? In or up(theres an arrow) ?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2010, 11:14 PM
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Default having problems with my 2001 mazda millenia need help!

ok im new on here and not really sure what im doing but i have a 2001 mazda millenia and it stopped working for me..... One day i drove it and it was fine and the next day i went to start it and the battery seemed to be dead because the lights were dim and it turned over but did not start. my friends came to help me but we could not put the car into neutral and at that point the car was dead to the world. so my friends decided to put their battery in cause they said it would charge the alternator and they could switch out the batteries once on...... they put the battery in backwards and the lights came on. they realized what they had done and turned it around and at that point the car did not do nothing at all. I have no clue about cars but im wondering if the computer maybe got fried when they crossed the battery. I am a single mom and finances are very tight over this christmas holiday so any input on this would be wonderful
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2010, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdagirl26 View Post
ok im new on here and not really sure what im doing but i have a 2001 mazda millenia and it stopped working for me..... One day i drove it and it was fine and the next day i went to start it and the battery seemed to be dead because the lights were dim and it turned over but did not start. my friends came to help me but we could not put the car into neutral and at that point the car was dead to the world. so my friends decided to put their battery in cause they said it would charge the alternator and they could switch out the batteries once on...... they put the battery in backwards and the lights came on. they realized what they had done and turned it around and at that point the car did not do nothing at all. I have no clue about cars but im wondering if the computer maybe got fried when they crossed the battery. I am a single mom and finances are very tight over this christmas holiday so any input on this would be wonderful
Reversed polarity probably burnt the main fuse. A few dollars for a replacement fuse from most any auto parts store and you should be back in business.
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Old 01-16-2011, 04:20 PM
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Does any one change there own trans fluid?
The type and where to get it might by put here, as I would like to change mine, It calls for DexronII. Not available off the self any more. Just the DExIII, combo of dex and the one ford uses. Last time I had it done was by a dealer and they went to the Mazda dealer and got the right fluid, cause they were not aware of it being DExII that was required. It pays to be knowledgeable on you vehicles.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2011, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by nivram View Post
Does any one change there own trans fluid?
The type and where to get it might by put here, as I would like to change mine, It calls for DexronII. Not available off the self any more. Just the DExIII, combo of dex and the one ford uses. Last time I had it done was by a dealer and they went to the Mazda dealer and got the right fluid, cause they were not aware of it being DExII that was required. It pays to be knowledgeable on you vehicles.
GM terminated the Dexron III license a couple of years ago, just as they did with Dexron II when they released Dexron III in the late 1990s. Dexron III has been replaced by Dexron VI (6). Dexron VI is backward compatible with previous Dexron variants.

Now, anything with Dexron III or II on the label has to be preceded by something like "suitable for use in transmissions calling for...". Anything that is labeled "Dexron VI" has to use a preapproved additive package and sold with a GM-issued license number to ensure quality control.
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