OBD II "ERR" - Mazda Forum

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2006, 02:01 AM
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I keep getting an ERR on my OBD II reader. I believe I may have blown a fuse in the system. Can anyone tell me if the OBD II connection has a fuse link and where can I find it?

I've looked in the fuse box but there is nothing that is identified as an OBD fuse. Maybe it's inline or under the hood? I've checked the wiring and it appears to be good.

Ot runs, I'm just trying to check a CEL.

Thanks

Mark 97 2.5L 68k mi
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
I keep getting an ERR on my OBD II reader. I believe I may have blown a fuse in the system. Can anyone tell me if the OBD II connection has a fuse link and where can I find it?

I've looked in the fuse box but there is nothing that is identified as an OBD fuse. Maybe it's inline or under the hood? I've checked the wiring and it appears to be good.

Ot runs, I'm just trying to check a CEL.

Thanks

Mark 97 2.5L 68k mi
[/b]
Make sure to have a compatible reader for the millenia.

Should be SAE J1850 PWM compatible.

That is the protocol to use.

If it has that protocol, and you get error, then yeah something
wrong with ecu. Try to reset the computer. Disconnect the neg. battery
cable for 10 secs, but just make it 30 secs, and then reconnect,
and get in drivers seat and pump brake pedal 5 times, OR for 10 to
15 secs. The computer should clear. The problem here is that it
will give you a p1000 which is an incomplete diagnostic. If the car
runs fine, and its not a problem for any reason(registration, or
operability), then you can take it down the road for 30-45 min. and
rediagnose the engine after completely resetting it.

I would reset it, and then see if the error code comes. In that order.
Then drive it on the highway for 30-45 min to get it to diagnose again.
They say you have to drive it like you would on a highway to get it
to diagnose correctly. 60mph should do it.

Do this.

1. Get correct reader.

2. If you still get error, reset computer.

3. After reset, check again if error comes.

4. If error after reset, you got problem with ecu most likely.(do not go on to #5).

5. If error clears, drive car on highway for time, may take longer or shorter.

6. Check with code reader again.

7. Pull codes.


If you have the anti-theft sound system dont reset computer more than
3 times, and read the manual on how to reset the radio head unit.
If anti-theft light is on, then its activated(will fault). If light
isnt flashing then its deactivated, and no worry.

3 times faulted circuit, and BLAM, radio out. Will have to be reset.
Instructions are on this site, but who knows if it works.
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Old 01-12-2006, 02:42 PM
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I've also read in Chiltons there's a second connection under the hood driver's side. If I pull the codes from this one then I will know that either it's the wiring or a fuse somewhere.

The reader I have is one I got from Ebay. It reads my Liberty OBD II system ok.
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:44 PM
t4d t4d is offline
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There is no OBD-II connection under the hood for your scanner, that connection is for the dealer's equipment. If you look you'll see it does not have the D-shaped OBD-II connector your scanner needs.

Do you have the key turned to ON when you're using the reader? It will read ERR if they key is not turned fully on (but don't start the car).
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Old 01-12-2006, 10:35 PM
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Yes the key is turned to the on position.

I have to believe it's either the 16 pin data link connection on the vehicle or there's a fuse that's blown. One thing though the first time I used the code reader I had to jam the cable into the connector because of poor manufacturing on the cable end. The code reader was made in China (TP-150) Maybe I jammed it too hard.

You are right there is no OBD II connection under the hood.
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Old 01-13-2006, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Yes the key is turned to the on position.

I have to believe it's either the 16 pin data link connection on the vehicle or there's a fuse that's blown. One thing though the first time I used the code reader I had to jam the cable into the connector because of poor manufacturing on the cable end. The code reader was made in China (TP-150) Maybe I jammed it too hard.

You are right there is no OBD II connection under the hood.
[/b]

Dude never force fit something like that.

I bet thats the problem. No it wont blow something most likely, but dont do it.

The diagnostic under the hood, you also can use. It may have less diagnostic
features. OBD I i heard.

I bought a code reader, and put the extension cable on it, but the extension
is for a special diagnostic connector, therefore, I didnt need the extension
cable. I just plugged the unit directly on to the terminal block.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT CODE READER, AND IF SAME err, RESET THE COMPUTER.

THAT IS THE FIRST STEP. THEN DRIVE ON HIGHWAY TO REDIAGNOSE.

To use code reader is simple.

Can plug it in and it will work. WITH CAR RUNNING.

Directions on mine say, turn car off, then start car,
and after car is started, then plug in the code reader.

They mean not to turn car on while code reader is plugged in.

BZZZZT, phantom code.
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:06 PM
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Sounds like the problem I had with the CREADER code reader from LAUNCH that I bought at Harbor Freight Tools for $39. Works fine on my 2000 Mazda MPV, but it wouldn't work at all on my 1999 Millenia. You plugged it in and just get an "E", for error.

I took that piece of crap back, and got my money back.

I bit the bullet and paid $199 on sale for the Actron CP9145 from PepBoys. It is awesome. I not only reads the codes, it displays the full description of the code (in English, Spanish, or French). The awesome thing it does is display the real time values of all the sensors, like voltage for all four O2 sensors, MAP, Thottle Position sensor, Fuel Rail Pressure, Barometric Pressure, Load, Cat Temp, Coolant Temp, RPM, etc. (to many to list). It also does Freeze Frame, that captures the data of all the sensors when the CEL occured.

I love this thing, it helps you pinpoint the problem down to the exact point of failure.

It also is upgradeable to the new CAN "Controller Area Network" protocol that will be required on all 2008 cars sold in the US, when OBDII will become obsolete.

If you buy a new OBDII code reader, make sure it also supports the new CAN protocol or is upgradeable to CAN in the future. Otherwise, it will be obsolete when you buy a car 2008 or newer, and you will have to buy another reader.
__________________
My 1999 Millenia S on Cardomain
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:49 PM
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That sounds like a pretty nice tool. I was trying not to spend that much money but I see where it'll also read OBD I (91 Cherokee) with another type cable.

It's tempting. It sounds as if you drive the vehicle and run the scan at the same time? Correct?
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