Replacing Head Unit... how to integrate BOSE amp/speakers - Page 2 - Mazda Forum
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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edit: oops, Matt is faster than me...
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 01:36 PM
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edit: oops, Matt is faster than me...[/b]
Haha, sorry about that, I didn't know you were replying too. Do you know if that is the 97-98 headunit on the bottom?


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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 07:02 PM
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Haha, sorry about that, I didn't know you were replying too. Do you know if that is the 97-98 headunit on the bottom?[/b]
I have the '98 and the bottom matches mine. I followed the diagram with my harness but not even a whisper out of the speakers. Any ideas? I assume it is due to the Bose amp.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 07:38 PM
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I have the '98 and the bottom matches mine. I followed the diagram with my harness but not even a whisper out of the speakers. Any ideas? I assume it is due to the Bose amp.[/b]
I think what I need is the location and wiring diagram for the amp(s).
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 07:53 PM
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I think what I need is the location and wiring diagram for the amp(s).[/b]
Wait a minute. Wouldn't I at least have sound from the front speakers?? What am I missing here?
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-27-2009, 01:30 AM
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As far as I know, the 98 should be almost identical to my 95 Bose set up. Each speaker has its own amp: rears are under the black plastic cover mounted on the magnet, fronts are mounted next to the speaker, and the center speaker is (for whatever reason) on the back of the rear seat. If you did not hook up the amp power wire, you won't get power to them and there will be no sound. I do not know which pin this is on the harness though... It has to be either b, d, e, f, or h on the 701 connector. (I doubt it is e) Hopefully someone has the answer. If you check for voltage on each of those pins, if there is voltage present then that is not the pin.


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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-28-2009, 03:15 PM
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As far as I know, the 98 should be almost identical to my 95 Bose set up. Each speaker has its own amp: rears are under the black plastic cover mounted on the magnet, fronts are mounted next to the speaker, and the center speaker is (for whatever reason) on the back of the rear seat. If you did not hook up the amp power wire, you won't get power to them and there will be no sound. I do not know which pin this is on the harness though... It has to be either b, d, e, f, or h on the 701 connector. (I doubt it is e) Hopefully someone has the answer. If you check for voltage on each of those pins, if there is voltage present then that is not the pin.[/b]
'98 appears to be a tad bit different. What I have found are two amps mounted to the back of the rear seat in the truck behind the carpet. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the amps? I was considering running a line level converter and using the bose amps with the bose speakers. But I need to figure out how to power these amps
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 01:13 AM
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You need to splice RCA male ends onto the harness, so front speakers have R+, R-, L+, L-, and rear has the same. You also have the center + and - which you probably won't be able to use. Just get a RCA audio cable and cut it in half. One half will be the front and the other will be the rear. They will be white and red with red being right channel. The wires will look like this (LINK).

If your new headunit has two sets of preamp outputs just plug the RCA's into there, no line level converters needed. If it only has one set, plug the fronts into that and use a line level converter for the rear. And if you have 0 RCA outputs you can use two LLC's but you would be better off getting a new headunit with 2 or more preouts.


As far as delivering power to the amps, if you cannot find the correct pin there is a way around that. You will need a multimeter, some tinfoil, tape, and a needle. Place the needle on the tip of the red lead on the meter, wrap it in tin foil and tape around it until it is secure. Set the meter to measure DC voltage. Ground the black lead and stick the needle into the back of each one of the possible wires (see my previous post) Have the headunit set on CD or TAPE, but NOT radio. Check for voltage at each wire, if there is no voltage this is not the right wire. If you find one with voltage (between 11.5-14.5), power off the headunit. If the voltage goes away that is the amp trigger, if the voltage is still there you need to keep searching.

It sounds more involved than it actually is. Let me know if you need clarification on anything.


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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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you need to find your remote wire on your car's harness...
use Matt's method with the OEM radio in place.
Once you find that wire, you need to wire it to you aftermarket radio...

I have a 2000 schematic.... if it is the same... look for a LT GRN/RED wire (light green/red)
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 07:13 PM
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you need to find your remote wire on your car's harness...
use Matt's method with the OEM radio in place.
Once you find that wire, you need to wire it to you aftermarket radio...

I have a 2000 schematic.... if it is the same... look for a LT GRN/RED wire (light green/red)[/b]
w00t! That lt grn/red wire was the trick. We have tunes! You guys rock, thanks for the help. Next, SUBS!!
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