Transmission rebild kit

[Nabil]

Hey Milly gang,

Well, I found someone who can rebuild my transmission for $200. Yes $200.
I searched the forum for anything related to rebuilding but I got nothing.

My question is, where is the best place to get a good rebuild kit?

RockAuto has it for around $100? Is that right? Someone said it's around $500!!

Is there performance kits for the Milly?

The guy said he can take it off and then tell me which part I need so I don't have to buy a whole kit... But I thought why not just replacing everything together?

What do you guys think? This guy is a transmission rebuilding specialist only... I think he is cheap coz of the economoy LOL.
Could the transmission be rebuilt from the bottom without taking it off? Some trannys have plate underneath the gearbox that can be taken off... I might be wrong though...

Opinions please... And if I posted something already ansewred please forgive me.

[Saint_]

Hey Milly gang,

Well, I found someone who can rebuild my transmission for $200. Yes $200.
I searched the forum for anything related to rebuilding but I got nothing.

My question is, where is the best place to get a good rebuild kit?

RockAuto has it for around $100? Is that right? Someone said it's around $500!!

Is there performance kits for the Milly?

The guy said he can take it off and then tell me which part I need so I don't have to buy a whole kit... But I thought why not just replacing everything together?

What do you guys think? This guy is a transmission rebuilding specialist only... I think he is cheap coz of the economoy LOL.
Could the transmission be rebuilt from the bottom without taking it off? Some trannys have plate underneath the gearbox that can be taken off... I might be wrong though...

Opinions please... And if I posted something already ansewred please forgive me.[/b]

Which model/year/mileage and what happened? It depends on what you are gonna change. It can go up to thousands. You may wanna change the torque converter, which is more expensive.

[yel-low]

I've searched for over a year for a tranny rebuild kit. The CHEAPEST I found was close to $150~$300+ and that doesn't include the torque converter. That is just for parts alone. Forget about the valve body that's upwards of $300-$500 alone! Rebuilding the transmission and just replacing the single worn band/clutch is just stupid to me. Its retarded that he even suggested to charge $200 to rip it all apart just to replace a single part. Are you sure you didn't hear wrong? Is that just for labor and you supply parts? I'm thinking he quoted you to replace just the "soft parts" which is still pointless without new bands/bushings. That rockauto kit is mostly "soft" parts.

Its possible he has a rebuild kit sitting around and he's going to give you the parts for free but I highly doubt that. Verify with him what parts he's going to change. In my experience, pulling apart a tranny and not doing it right the first time is just asking for a world of hate. Make sure you get a good warranty from him when its all done and over.

The entire transmission has to be removed to service. There are no plates that you can remove as on some domestic transmissions.

A place like Transmission parts is a good place to start at. They have a master kit that includes most of what you need for a good price.

While your at it you might want to consider modding your pump.
Give both of these a read over.
http://www.sonnax.com/announcements/K74878.pdf
http://sonnax.com/instructions/K74878-IN.pdf

[Nabil]

Well, It's 01 Milly 2.5.

I have a rough shift between 1st and 2nd gear.

To be honest all I know is that the guy will take $200 for labor and I have to buy the parts. Based on rockauto, I thought this is a good deal project to improve my car drivability wise and value wise.

I did not know that I will run into other problems as you guys are talking. Why would I have to change the torque converter?

I took the car before to a tranny shop. They examined it and the result was that the clutches were worn out. The guy said that the clutch on 2nd gear is worn out thus the gear slams when it goes to 2nd. And when it goes to 3rd, you feel like you are moving forward... Not ugly or bothering but that's how you feel.

So From what the tranny shop said, I understood that It's just a matter of changing those clutches that's all.

So when this guy offered to rebuild for $200, I thought it won't be too of a big deal...

Are the clutches considered to be soft parts? Or something else?
I know nothing about rebuilding trannys process but what I'm thinking is that you take the tranny out and then torque converter comes out then the gears with the clutches on them... I never seen what's inside though lol... I'm just imagining.

So you guys think It's not worth it to "just" change the clutches? And when you change clutches, are there any other things that need to be changed as well?

I"m afraid the guy offered $200 to make me get into it and then surprise me with un=expected bills/parts to be replaced...

I don't know the guy himself, I just know his brother who works in construction for a friend of mine.

And honestly I'm thinking that I might have to sell the car to cover some of my college bills for the fall. I have not yet got my financial aid approved... So just in case I get stuck, I sell the car and pay what I have to pay

[yel-low]

Its possible that your clutches are worn but these transmissions suffer from a few issues. The one I listed above is often the culprit to the hard 2-3rd gear shift. Its an easy fix and costs about $10 in parts. If you have an especially dirty transmission or don't change your fluid often that will cause the piston to stick as well. That clutch diagnosis is just a generic one that most tranny shops use to get you in. Once they have your car up in the air with its guts all over the place they pretty much have you by the balls and can call out any price they want.

I'm right on with you... that tranny guy just wants you in the door. Try a tranny flush (many tutorials on here) and some good fluid before you start pulling things apart. It may not be as bad as you think.

[Nabil]

Its possible that your clutches are worn but these transmissions suffer from a few issues. The one I listed above is often the culprit to the hard 2-3rd gear shift. Its an easy fix and costs about $10 in parts. If you have an especially dirty transmission or don't change your fluid often that will cause the piston to stick as well. That clutch diagnosis is just a generic one that most tranny shops use to get you in. Once they have your car up in the air with its guts all over the place they pretty much have you by the balls and can call out any price they want.

I'm right on with you... that tranny guy just wants you in the door. Try a tranny flush (many tutorials on here) and some good fluid before you start pulling things apart. It may not be as bad as you think.[/b]

You're talking about the pump mod right? Have you done it? Is it easy to get to the bold they are talking about in their website?

I had the tranny shop that I went to in the first time flush my tranny. They advised to use full syn oil and so I did.

They used only 5 qts though so I guess the oil in the torque convertor did not come down?

I heard some cluncking noise in the back today... Not sure what it is... I checked the upper control arms on the rear tires and they seem solid.... I was looking under the car, is there ball joints in the rear?! I thought cars don't have them in the rear just in the front! What's the point of having it in the rear if the tire does not rotate!! and looks like there are lower ball joints and and one of the links had inner tie rods? How can I spot the problem? Jack the car and try to shake the tire to see if there is any movement?

I looked at the ODO today and it's turning 130K in 800 miles... I just bought the car less then 5 month ago with 124K!!

[ken inn]

You're talking about the pump mod right? Have you done it? Is it easy to get to the bold they are talking about in their website?

I had the tranny shop that I went to in the first time flush my tranny. They advised to use full syn oil and so I did.

They used only 5 qts though so I guess the oil in the torque convertor did not come down?

I heard some cluncking noise in the back today... Not sure what it is... I checked the upper control arms on the rear tires and they seem solid.... I was looking under the car, is there ball joints in the rear?! I thought cars don't have them in the rear just in the front! What's the point of having it in the rear if the tire does not rotate!! and looks like there are lower ball joints and and one of the links had inner tie rods? How can I spot the problem? Jack the car and try to shake the tire to see if there is any movement?

I looked at the ODO today and it's turning 130K in 800 miles... I just bought the car less then 5 month ago with 124K!![/b]

5 qts? no flush here. i get 7+ liters out with my mityvac MV7201. ripoff, yes, flush, no

[Xedosman]

I got the car with abit harsh shifts to second, soon 7 years ago with 47k km on the clock.

At 60k km I got a flush performed with regular Dexron II, which improved the shift quality. This was done by a dealer who didn't raise their eyebrowes when asked them to do it.

At 120k km I got a second flush performed with Shell Dexron III. This was done by a local shop, and I had to become quite persuasive to have them do it, including a writeout
from this site to convince them, as they had contacted a tranny shop and they had never heard of any flush procedures. Of course tranny shops make money due to lack of maintenance and I suspect they often give their advice accordingly. Pan drop and fluid swap was what they recommended. Anyway the flush eventually transformed the shifts to ultrasmooth, part form every other jerky shift to second when cold and with very modest throttle. Mainly it is very smooth, now at 175k km and soon due for a third flush

I guess a flush can be performed with some auxillary pump or equipment. My flushes goes like this: Engine idling with shifter in P, while the ATF bleeds out through the trannycooler hose. Fresh fluid is mated through the cooler return line, at approximately the same flowrate. With this method, it takes 10 litres before the old fluid changes color to light red which equals fresh fluid.

I am debating to drop the pan for filter inspection and magnet cleaning before my third flush which I plan to perform myself.

[yel-low]

I'd definitely drop the pan on your next flush. Its not nearly as a pain as dropping the oil pan, which has the exhaust in the way. You'd be really surprised what's on those magnets. My looked like two little Furbies. I had to actually pull them off the pan to clean them off totally.

[Xedosman]

Thanks, I'm sure you're right. Is it ok to use sealant or should I get a new gasket? One more thing, is Pennzoil Dexron III a decent fluid? Came by a bargain offer, 12 qrts for $110.