JDM Conversion! - Engine Cooler??

[Fast95BurMilly]

Note: I am in the process of converting from a 1995 Millenia Engine and transmission to a JDM Engine and transmission.

Does anyone know if the U.S. 2.5L engine cooler will work on the Japanese Domestic Motor?

My engine shop has no idea?

I told them to maybe look a t buying an external one! Does anyone know where I am able to find one for the 2.5L engine?

Thanks.

[Matt64341]

Note: I am in the process of converting from a 1995 Millenia Engine and transmission to a JDM Engine and transmission.

Does anyone know if the U.S. 2.5L engine cooler will work on the Japanese Domestic Motor?

My engine shop has no idea?

I told them to maybe look a t buying an external one! Does anyone know where I am able to find one for the 2.5L engine?

Thanks.[/b]

What do you mean? The radiator? Engine Oil Cooler? All that kind of stuff should be exactly the same.

[Fast95BurMilly]

What do you mean? The radiator? Engine Oil Cooler? All that kind of stuff should be exactly the same.[/b]

No their is no engine cooler with the Japanese Domestic Engine. The mechanic was asking me if he should go ahead and take the engine cooler off my current engine(U.S.) and part it back into the Japanese engine(Japan)? He is fearful that it may not be compatible!

Plus he has to take off the timing tray? to remove the engine cooler and was requesting instructions. I did not know what to say since I am not a mechanic and have really no knowledge of the JDM!

Can anyone help me out?

[Matt64341]

I have never heard of a timing tray...? What "engine cooler" are you referring to?

[SteveSter]

Engine cooler???? Timing Tray???? You have all of us confused. If these are the terms your mechanic is using, I would be careful with that guy.

[Matt64341]

Engine cooler???? Timing Tray???? You have all of us confused. If these are the terms your mechanic is using, I would be careful with that guy. [/b]

It's good to know I'm not crazy then

[SteveSter]

Unless hes talking about the water pump and timing cover??? Wait nevermind you cant get an aftermarket waterpump.

[Fast95BurMilly]

forget about what the process of removing the engine cooler. I asking if I can transfer the engine cooler to the Japanese Domestic Engine and that it will be able to accept it!

Go back to my starting topic for details! I think you guys are lost! Maybe me too! But I just asking so I can answer tomorrow to the mechanic!

[Saint_]

I think the only major difference is missing EGR in JDM engines. Well it may help cool the engine but my first call wouldnt be an engine cooler for sure.

If it is EGR, you may have problem with emissions depending on your state.

[SteveSter]

Found some info regarding a ZE swap may want to pass this info along to your mechanic. It is intended for the ford probe with the KL-DE in it so it wont be exact but something is something.

This list will be separated into three sections: removal, maintenance/performance, and prep for install/installation. I will try to keep it as concise as possible

For starters, make sure you have everything before you start anything. Here is a basic list:
• A car with a KL block already in it……that needs the KL-ZE.
• A complete replacement KL-ZE Motor.
• Drain pan capable of collecting up to 8 qt of oil / gear lube.
• A separate container capable of collecting up to 2 gallons of antifreeze / coolant.
• A basic set of hand tools including but not limited to:
1. Metric 3/8 drive ratchet set from 8mm to 17mm w/ extension up to 12” (this is about standard)
2. Metric ½ drive ratchets in 17, 19, & 23 mm
3. Small assortment of Philips and Flat head screwdrivers
4. Snub and Long needle nose pliers
5. 5# sledge hammer
6. Perhaps a 10 # as well
7. Center Punch and Chisel Punch
8. Metric open/box end wrenches 8mm to 17mm (I prefer the Gear Wrenches)
9. Metric Allen set
10. Floor jack with 12-15” lift
11. Jack stands
12. Preferably ½ drive torque wrench
• Make sure you have someplace to do this, preferably a flat driveway or garage if applicable. Also make sure your neighbors will not take offense to you turning their community into their own little slice of Alabama.
• Ample time to accomplish this; my best time on a straight swap (no performance crap “at the same time”) was right at 6 hr.
• You will hurt the day after this so get some Advil or alcohol now.
• Full quantities of replacement fluid:
a. 2 oil filters
b. 5 quarts of cheap oil
c. 5 quarts of Mobil 1
d. one gallon of coolant, or 2 gallons of 50/50 pre-mix
e. 3 quarts of gear lube; your choice (Red Line, Royal Purple, GM Synchromesh, just regular 75W90
• And finally an Engine Hoist, Cherry Picker, or equivalent
Bear in mind that this is for a manual transmission equipped vehicle; the automatic is slightly different, whereas the transmission will remain in the vehicle




REMOVAL 101

• Raise and support the vehicle, placing the jack stands under the lower control arm rear bushings
• Remove the wheels and place them under the car below the doors, for safety just in case.
• Remove both underside splash shields (if applicable) – 10 mm, 8 mm, Phillips plastic retainer
• Begin by draining all the fluids:
a. Motor oil via the pan drain plug – assorted sizes 14 -19 mm
b. Leave the oil filter on, it will keep it from leaking everywhere
c. Gear lube from the transmission drain plug – 23 mm
d. Coolant into your separate container via the radiator petcock (near A/C Compressor) – remove the radiator cap to help it drain more quickly
• Also drain the coolant in the motor’s water jacket by removing the coolant line to the oil cooler above the oil filter – long needle nose pliers work best here, relieve the clamp and move it up the hose, and if the hose is stubborn, rotate it with the pliers, it should break free.
• Do this for both hoses to drain as much coolant as possible, and reconnect them afterwards to stop leakage on removal
• The radiator will drain slowly, so in the meantime you can begin by removing any air intake you may have up to the throttle body, PA, HS, eBay, or factory.- 8 mm, 12 mm, or flat head screwdriver
• Remove the battery and battery tray – 10 mm
• Remove the battery tray bracket to the frame – 10 mm x 2
• Remove the distributor and spark plug wires – 12 mm x 2
• Remove the wires still in the wire holders, use a small screwdriver to lift the plastic retainer and slide the whole thing up – easier to install later
• By this time the coolant should be drained. Close the petcock and relieve the spring clamps on the coolant supply hose and return hoses at the motor. If the hose feels stuck, twist it.
Remove the two upper radiator hooks – 12 mm x 2
• Disconnect the two radiator fan plugs, and remove the chassis wires from the radiator if they are still connected. The radiator must be completely free from the car for the next step
• remove the radiator
• Now begin on the wire harness
• Disconnect the oil pressure sending unit by squeezing the clip
• Disconnect the alternator at the plug and flip up the little plastic cover on the cable, remove that nut with a 12 mm socket
• Remove the wire harness retainers on the front valve cover – 10 mm x 2
• Disconnect the front 02 sensor
• Feed the wire around the coolant neck to the thermostat
• Disconnect the starter by squeezing the exciter clip and pull up the little rubber cover on the cable, remove that nut with a 12 mm socket
• Disconnect the fuel rail plugs, knock sensor, throttle body, Idle Air Control, & Fuel Pressure Regulator
• Do not be alarmed from all the plastic crunching sounds that the wire harness makes as you are moving it around. That plastic used to be black rubber electrical tape, but with thousands of heat cycles, it gets brittle. HOWEVER, Try not to move it around too much, so when you lay the harness back in after the motor is installed, the wires will retain a memory of where they used to be to help you plug everything back in.
• Now concentrate on the transmission There are quite a few wire harness connections on ore near the transmission:
1. Front of the transmission, under the starter – reverse switch, white plug
2. Middle of the transmission, near the fuel filter – park/neutral position switch, black plug
3. Rear of the transmission, directly under the throttle body – speed sensor, grey plug
4. Now get the grounds, large multiple one at the upper motor mount – 17 mm
5. 4 wire black one at a central bracket – 10 mm ratchet with 12” extension
6. Single wire black at same bracket – 10 mm ratchet with 12” extension
7. Heavy gauge black/yellow tracer at transmission/rear motor mount support beam – 10 mm ratchet with 12” extension
8. Go ahead and remove the brackets as well – your discretion to reinstall after the fact
9. The rear bracket with the wire harness plugs on it has the retainer bolt under the rear harness plug – long needle nose will relieve the plastic clip to gain access to it - 10 mm ratchet with 12” extension
10. Remove the support beam from rear motor mount to the transmission – 10 mm ratchet with 12” extension
11. Remove the fuel filter upper retaining nuts – 10 mm ratchet with 12” extension
12. Remove the fuel supply line from the top of the fuel filter, and then remove the fuel return line from the rigid line at the motor. This way it only goes back in one way



REMOVAL 102
• Now go back to wire harness unplugging
• Disconnect the EGR 3 wire at the EGR
• Move over to the passenger side
• Disconnect the crank sensor – 3 wire
• Disconnect the coolant temp sensor – 2 wire
• Disconnect the coolant gauge sensor – 1 wire
• Pull that section free and peek down at the top of the power steering pump
• There is one 10 mm nut and one 10 mm bolt that you need to remove to free the upper P/S Pump. Both of them are P/S hose bracket retainers. 10 mm and 12” extension will work here.
• Now move around to the back of the Intake Manifold
• Disconnect the VRIS – 2 wire brown and black
• Disconnect the canister purge – 2 wire black
• Reach down behind and unplug the EGR Solenoids, they are together on a small bracket that supports the Intake Manifold – this is the @!#$@ bolt
• BE VERY CAREFUL, These are Expensive to Replace
• I recommend you remove them now to save on damage to them on removal – 12 mm
• There are 2 vacuum lines feeding them, find the vacuum line that tees off the VRIS VAC supply, and disconnect it from the tee. Then remove the other line from the EGR Assembly. This is the VENT line. This way it will only go back together one way; one connection up, one connection down.
• Remove the throttle body cable and the brake booster hose from the Intake Manifold
• Now get up under the car.
• Lower cross member – 17 mm x 6
• Start with the Exhaust. 3 bolts on the collectors - 14 mm
• There is a good possibility that these will break off, so pre-spraying them with some PB Blaster or other penetrant may help
• Removing the exhaust hooks into the rubber isolators will allow you to lower it and get it out of the way
• Next remove the shift linkage – 12 mm and pin, note the plastic bushings in the transmission sleeve
• Remove the shift linkage stabilizer and bushing – 14 mm nut
• NOTE: Some transmissions I have seen the stud come out instead of the nut, which isn’t a problem, but it could cause a few. No need to elaborate, just remove the nut and thread back in the stud to the hole it came out of.
• Now you should be able to see the rear motor mount bracket to the transmission.
• START ON THE TOP BOLT! Break it loose and thread it out by hand
• Next is the middle one, same thing
• Finally break loose the lower one and remove it. You’ll thank me because if it does bind up, there is the top one.more room to swing the ratchet on the lower one versus
• Once they are removed, see how much movement you can get out of that bracket. Excessive play either way means your motor mount is poop.
• Move forward to the lower motor mount and remove it – 14 mm x 2
• remove the front motor mount – 17 mm x 2 & 17 mm thru bolt
• Move over to the A/C Compressor, and remove the retaining bolts – 12 mm x 4
• Now remove the alternator – 12 mm x 2 & a lower 14 mm lower bolt
• NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the lower 14 mm, just loosen it. Once it is loose you can swing the alternator out away from the motor and work it back and forth. It will slide out of its groove, set it in the good pile
• Now loosen the alt-a/c belt tensioner and remove the belt – 17 mm nut & 10 mm tension bolt
• The A/C Compressor may fall free, but don’t worry, it’ll be fine. . Leave it there, and doing it this way means not having to get the a/c system recharged, because the system has not been breached.
• Now remove the tensioner pulley by unthreading the 17 mm all the way
• Now remove the tensioner bracket – 12 mm upper and lower
• Next break the power steering pump center nut loose, normally 17 or 19 mm. Keep the belt tensioned to stop the pulley from moving. If it still moves, a 12 mm socket placed on one of its retaining bolts will stop it from rotating.
• Now loosen the p/s – wp tensioner and remove the belt - 17 mm nut & 10 mm tension bolt
• Remove the p/s pulley and remove the retaining bolts – 12 mm x 3
• Go back under and remove the rear 14 mm p/s bracket bolt
• At this point the PS Pump should pull free, since you already took care of the upper brackets. Leave it there, and doing it this way means no huge Power steering leak or mess, because the system has not been breached.
• Remove the ABS Sensors (if Applicable) from the hubs – 12 mm x 3
• Remove the brake line retainer clip from the strut
• Remove the strut bolts from the hub – 17 mm x 2
• Get your hammer and help the passenger side inner joint off the intermediate shaft, one or 2 good smacks will break it loose, and then slide it off the rest of the way.
• The outer hub will lie out freely, and this will be enough clearance to get the motor out when that time comes. This will leave the axle in the hub, but disconnected from the intermediate shaft.
• Next do the Driver side, use the hammer and the Chisel between the transmission and input shaft. One or two good smacks will pop it loose, unless there is a problem with the c-clip. Reference the Change your own clutch thread for clarification. Same thing here with the axle still in the hub, but out of the transmission. This will save you 20-30 minutes of labor fighting with the axles and hubs.
• The outer hub will lie out freely, and this will be enough clearance to get the motor out when that time comes.
• Now get the engine hoist ready and attach it to the motor hooks
• Lift up until you have relieved the weight of the motor / transmission from the vehicle
• Now remove the passenger side motor mount – 17 mm nut x 3 & 17 mm thru bolt
• Read the next line thoroughly
• Before you remove the driver side motor mount bolts, note the location of the upper nuts/bolts in the driver side motor mount with a silver sharpie, white-out, was pencil or spray paint or something. This is critical on reinstallation for REAR Motor Mount alignment.
• Remove the motor mount nuts and bolts – 17 mm x 4
• The 4th one is down on a leg below the fuel filter, don’t forget it
• Once free, lower the motor about 4”, or till it rests on the sub frame
• Remove the Motor Mount thru Bolt – 17 mm nut, the bolt is a square head that sits in a keyway, replace it in the same orientation
• Now you are ready to remove the Motor
• Slowly begin its ascent, note the locations of all peripherals and accessories.
• The axles will clear and remain in the bay
• The Power Steering Pump will remain in the bay
• The A/C Compressor will remain in the bay
• As it rises, you will want to angle it so that the transmission pan ascends where the battery once was. This is the easiest way to remove.
• push the hub assemblies back toward the car to relieve stress on the brake lines.
• Once clear set it down and take a break. You should be 2 hrs into this job.