2001 timing belt cam gear alignment millenia - Mazda Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-22-2009, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Hey new here, but I need some help please, I replace the timing belt on this car a couple of years ago, doing it again because the =water pump was leaking and destroyed the belt. Anyway when I set the rear cam gear alignment mark where it's supposed to be should the cam be "loaded" ( valve spring pressure on the cam) the front gear is o/k (not loaded). You know what I mean ... when you turn the cam gear it will turn with resistance and then free up, The front gear frees up on the mark the rear doesn't. Any way, is the rear gear on valve spring pressure when the marks are lined up. I can't remember if this is right. I guess it has to be cause there just isn't any other way! Most cars I've done (mainly v8 American!) when on t.d.c there is no load on the cam. Thanx for any help!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-22-2009, 04:17 PM
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2.5L or 2.3? There is a specific procedure where the cams are lined up, top idler pulley installed, tension taken up and slack left where the hydraulic tensioner sits. The tensioner is then released and the crank rotated a few times to verify everything is where it needs to be. This is for the 2.5L I have no clue about the 2.3. It usually takes me a few times to get everything lined up.

Even on the 2.5 there is rotational torque on the cam. I usually use some quick grip clamps to hold the belt to the cam when I do the adjusting down by the crank.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-22-2009, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
2.5L or 2.3? There is a specific procedure where the cams are lined up, top idler pulley installed, tension taken up and slack left where the hydraulic tensioner sits. The tensioner is then released and the crank rotated a few times to verify everything is where it needs to be. This is for the 2.5L I have no clue about the 2.3. It usually takes me a few times to get everything lined up.

Even on the 2.5 there is rotational torque on the cam. I usually use some quick grip clamps to hold the belt to the cam when I do the adjusting down by the crank.[/b]
yes, it's the 2.5, Well I hope that I get it right . Did fine last time, just don't remember the rear cam gear on valve spring pressure when lined up with the mark, Then I'll install the belt as you say. I hope you know what I'm referring to, thanx
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-23-2009, 11:43 AM
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I am working on a 2.5 '02 millenia timing belt, and having the same trouble, I can get the front cam lined up, but the back cam has two marks on the head/valve cover, and I don't knwo which to line up; and it will have pressure from the valve springs when it is in line, with either mark. I have another question, how to I release the hydraulic tensioner, I can't get the new belt on because the tensioner is still "tight" Please help
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-23-2009, 02:45 PM
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The torsion on the rear cam is normal. Its just one of those things that makes this job a little bit more difficult. You will have to experiment to find your own technique that allows the cam to rotate ever so slightly and still hit the timing mark dead on. I usually install the belt with the cam rotated a tick or two before the timing mark. When I install the tensioner it takes up the slack and everything rotates into place.

Its easier said than done. This is why so many people have timing problems after they take the car to incompetent mechanics. Keep at it and you will eventually get it.

As for the tensioner, are you reusing the old one or are you replacing it with a new one? Re-read my first post on this thread. Once you unlock the tensioner (pull the pin out) you will have to compress it in a vice or press and re-insert the pin to lock it back down. A very small allen key works if you lost your original pin.

Edit: Sorry I'm confusing posts. I mentioned compressing the tensioner in my other post
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