MAP Sensor - Mazda Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Could someone post a picture of where the MAP Sensor is on a 2000 Millenia with the Miller engine.
The engine check light was on and the guy at the parts store told me it was a MAP Sensor. He also
said I had a mis fire from cylinder #3. Could this be from the sensor or is that something else?

Thanks in advance for any input.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 10:35 PM
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Could someone post a picture of where the MAP Sensor is on a 2000 Millenia with the Miller engine.
The engine check light was on and the guy at the parts store told me it was a MAP Sensor. He also
said I had a mis fire from cylinder #3. Could this be from the sensor or is that something else?

Thanks in advance for any input.[/b]
since i dont know how to post a pic, the map sensor lives on a bracket behind the passenger side upper strut mount. open hood, find pass strut mount, behind that is the sensor. it will be connected to a solenoid, and then to the rest of the mass of vacuum lines. i would first check for a vacuum leak before changing the sensor. they rarely go bad. misfire on 3 is not related. plugs should be changed every 60k, and use the correct plug with the correct gap. since #3 is on the rear bank, which is a pain to get at, i would get a known good coil and change it out with the plugs. then put the suspect coil on the front bank, and see if the miss follows. used coils are cheap
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 10:44 PM
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since i dont know how to post a pic, the map sensor lives on a bracket behind the passenger side upper strut mount. open hood, find pass strut mount, behind that is the sensor. it will be connected to a solenoid, and then to the rest of the mass of vacuum lines. i would first check for a vacuum leak before changing the sensor. they rarely go bad. misfire on 3 is not related. plugs should be changed every 60k, and use the correct plug with the correct gap. since #3 is on the rear bank, which is a pain to get at, i would get a known good coil and change it out with the plugs. then put the suspect coil on the front bank, and see if the miss follows. used coils are cheap[/b]
Ken I'm sick of your old wrinkly ass not posting photos. As much knowledge as you have for us and you can't post photos. No wonder your posts are 2 sentences short of the declaration of independence. A nice picture would sum it all up! We all like pictures. Here is a quick tutorial on how to post photos.....How to post photos in forums for old wrinkly noobs <-------------CLICK ON THAT.

And you forgot to tell the poor guy to change the rest of the spark plugs while hes in that rear bank. He probably has 105k old spark plugs in the rear and 40k old ones in the front. Also check your vacuum line T's and the vacuum lines under there. Inspect it all when you have that rear bank off. I know everybody on this forum with the S model hates changing the rear bank plugs.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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How long would it take to change the plugs and sensor? The reason I ask is that I live in Wisconsin and its 15 degrees outside. How much would a mechanic charge for a job like this? I dont want to be stuck outside for more than a hour.

Thanks,
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 11:14 AM
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How long would it take to change the plugs and sensor? The reason I ask is that I live in Wisconsin and its 15 degrees outside. How much would a mechanic charge for a job like this? I dont want to be stuck outside for more than a hour.

Thanks,[/b]
the sensor would take about 10 minutes. the spark plugs a LOT longer. iirc, the flat rate for the spark plugs is 2.5 hours. however, if your mechanic is doing this for the first time, it will eat his lunch. then, you have to worry about whether he put the correct plugs back in, and if he even does the rear bank, which takes up almost all of the time. also, at 15 deg, stuff like the vacuum lines are going to be frozen stiff, and the plastic ports on the sensor and the solenoid will be brittle. and probably break. all the metal parts will be uber cold. like sticking your tongue on the frozen flag pole. no amount of money is worth working in 15 deg temps.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 06:17 PM
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Ken I'm sick of your old wrinkly ass not posting photos. As much knowledge as you have for us and you can't post photos. No wonder your posts are 2 sentences short of the declaration of independence. A nice picture would sum it all up! We all like pictures. Here is a quick tutorial on how to post photos.....How to post photos in forums for old wrinkly noobs <-------------CLICK ON THAT.

And you forgot to tell the poor guy to change the rest of the spark plugs while hes in that rear bank. He probably has 105k old spark plugs in the rear and 40k old ones in the front. Also check your vacuum line T's and the vacuum lines under there. Inspect it all when you have that rear bank off. I know everybody on this forum with the S model hates changing the rear bank plugs.[/b]
Ken, your words are wise and a picture is worth a thousand words. Keep up the great advice.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-07-2010, 06:54 PM
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-08-2010, 01:37 AM
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Yeah I appreciate his and everyone's else who has helped, i.e. millyowner, milly00, goliat, hmm... I know I am missing people too. Oh yeah Millenia-falcon, jaystew with his super nice milly, and chitown (helped with the HIDs, gave me the right location on where to put the ballast). Hmm... i know there's more. Once again let me sum it all up: THANKS GUYS! Yall are UBER-AWESOME! Sooner or later I am going to have to get the axles done. Getting more clicking in left wheel. Boots look great! But like millyowner said, most ppl wait till they split to actually change them.

2000 MILLENIUM ED.-- Totaled
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