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Old 03-04-2010, 06:08 PM
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I have a 98 millenia S and the check engine light has been on for several months.
Symptoms:
Sputtering on heavy hard acceleration
TCS light comes on after car has been sitting for more than 9hrs and the car starts bucking (shut the car off and start it again and the TCS doesnt come back on and)

The T.C.S light came on after the car had been sitting all day and after driving 5 minutes out of nowhere the TCS error light came on. The car started bucking i pulled over and shut the car off waited a few minutes and started the car again and it didn't happen again. The only time this seems to happen is when the car has been sitting for a long time. I took the car to get the check engine light checked out and was told that the #4 was misfiring. The mechanic replaced the direct ignition and the spark plugs. Now the problem i am having is the check engine light still comes on, the car no longer sputters on heavy acceleration but sputters on regular acceleration between 10 -40 mph. The error code is showing P1526 oh yeah and the T.C.S has not come back on, slight sputtering on regular acceleration. What do i need to do
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Old 03-04-2010, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
I have a 98 millenia S and the check engine light has been on for several months.
Symptoms:
Sputtering on heavy hard acceleration
TCS light comes on after car has been sitting for more than 9hrs and the car starts bucking (shut the car off and start it again and the TCS doesnt come back on and)

The T.C.S light came on after the car had been sitting all day and after driving 5 minutes out of nowhere the TCS error light came on. The car started bucking i pulled over and shut the car off waited a few minutes and started the car again and it didn't happen again. The only time this seems to happen is when the car has been sitting for a long time. I took the car to get the check engine light checked out and was told that the #4 was misfiring. The mechanic replaced the direct ignition and the spark plugs. Now the problem i am having is the check engine light still comes on, the car no longer sputters on heavy acceleration but sputters on regular acceleration between 10 -40 mph. The error code is showing P1526 oh yeah and the T.C.S has not come back on, slight sputtering on regular acceleration. What do i need to do [/b]
ohm the vent solenoid. then check all the vacuum lines, and repair any broke tees. it will only get worse. if the vent solenoid ohms bad, i would change out both the vent and the vacuum. and i would change out all the plastic tees, and replace with better(brass) ones. i would also change out all the vacuum lines, and go back with some very high quality silicon line. oh, wait. i did. i think the sputtering is another coil or coils dying, or, your mechanic put the wrong plugs in.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
ohm the vent solenoid. then check all the vacuum lines, and repair any broke tees. it will only get worse. if the vent solenoid ohms bad, i would change out both the vent and the vacuum. and i would change out all the plastic tees, and replace with better(brass) ones. i would also change out all the vacuum lines, and go back with some very high quality silicon line. oh, wait. i did. i think the sputtering is another coil or coils dying, or, your mechanic put the wrong plugs in.[/b]

Ken first of all thank you for your response and your suggestions:
My mechanic has order the vent and vaccum solenoid , what spark plugs should he have used and i will tell him to replace the tees and vaccum lines, how many tee's and vaccum lines are there. I forgot to mention that the car has 167.000 mile
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:42 PM
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Ken first of all thank you for your response and your suggestions:
My mechanic has order the vent and vaccum solenoid , what spark plugs should he have used and i will tell him to replace the tees and vaccum lines, how many tee's and vaccum lines are there. I forgot to mention that the car has 167.000 mile[/b]
the correct spark plugs are ngk 3741. but it is the gap that is critical. the 3741 is the factory recommended plug, and it comes with the correct gap. do not let anyone sell you any other plug

however, changing the tees and the vacuum lines will get expensive. lots of labor involved here. these cars have no resale. 167k on a 98, the car is only worth a couple thousand, if at that. if you are going to keep the car, then the fix might be worth it, but it also could be just the beginning of worse things to come. however, a lot of the problems with this car involve the vacuum lines. you should keep a very good eye on costs of repairs, because it is very easy to get in way over your head. know when to quit. if i had to pay someone to work on our cars(we have 2), i would have gotten rid of them a long time ago.
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
the correct spark plugs are ngk 3741. but it is the gap that is critical. the 3741 is the factory recommended plug, and it comes with the correct gap. do not let anyone sell you any other plug

however, changing the tees and the vacuum lines will get expensive. lots of labor involved here. these cars have no resale. 167k on a 98, the car is only worth a couple thousand, if at that. if you are going to keep the car, then the fix might be worth it, but it also could be just the beginning of worse things to come. however, a lot of the problems with this car involve the vacuum lines. you should keep a very good eye on costs of repairs, because it is very easy to get in way over your head. know when to quit. if i had to pay someone to work on our cars(we have 2), i would have gotten rid of them a long time ago.[/b]

I agree with everything you said and in the back of mind i have been thinking of how much i want to keep spending on the car to keep it running. I am going to replace both the solenoids. The sparks plugs he wrote on the repair sheet was that he replace the spark plugs with autolite brand. I will ask him if the plugs he used were factory recommended and how much would it cost to replace the plugs with the recommended ones. Overall the car runs well i am just getting really bad gas mileage otherwise i could put up with the slight puttering. But i thought it was just going to be a simple replacement of the plugs, if he didn't put NGK plugs would that cause the error P1526 and maybe i wouldn't need the solenoids replaced?

Ken you have put my mind at ease thank you!
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:39 AM
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I agree with everything you said and in the back of mind i have been thinking of how much i want to keep spending on the car to keep it running. I am going to replace both the solenoids. The sparks plugs he wrote on the repair sheet was that he replace the spark plugs with autolite brand. I will ask him if the plugs he used were factory recommended and how much would it cost to replace the plugs with the recommended ones. Overall the car runs well i am just getting really bad gas mileage otherwise i could put up with the slight puttering. But i thought it was just going to be a simple replacement of the plugs, if he didn't put NGK plugs would that cause the error P1526 and maybe i wouldn't need the solenoids replaced?

Ken you have put my mind at ease thank you![/b]
1526 is not related to the wrong plugs. the autolite plugs are the wrong gap(1.1mm, should be .7-.8mm. if they cannot convert metric to inches, you need to not go there). and, if the plugs are not common copper or nickel core, then they cannot be regapped(if they DID put copper or nickel core plugs in there, you need to go somewhere else). he might think they can be, but every plug manufacturer does not recommend regapping a plug with a precious metals tip(precious metals tip is like platinum, gold palladium, iridium, amongst others). beware of the "mechanics" who tell you they have been working on cars for 30 years, etc, because they might be set in their ways, and cannot cope with the new changes in automotive technology.

1526 although specifies the solenoid, and in a lot of cases it is, but the entire circuit that the vent solenoid is on should be inspected. realistically, the entire system of vacuum lines should be inspected. this is a labor intensive job, lots of stuff has to come off. the shop will lose money on this. you should first get an estimate on how much, then decide if it is worth it. i would expect at least 3 hours, if the estimate is less, they dont know what they are in for, and you might want to reconsider who works on your car. but i would at least start with getting the proper spark plugs in there. a few pieces that have to come off to get to the plugs also have to come off to get to the vacuum lines and tees. bottom line here is that very few "mechanics" out there have any experience with your car, and you are basically paying them to learn how to do things. most places will consult a flat rate guide and go by that. in the case of your car, the flat rates are usually not near enough, so if the job cannot be done in the quoted time, then they start looking for short cuts, or ignoring certain steps that are critical to completing the job correctly. it is going to get more expensive from here on, you might want to consider getting a different car.
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Old 03-05-2010, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
1526 is not related to the wrong plugs. the autolite plugs are the wrong gap(1.1mm, should be .7-.8mm. if they cannot convert metric to inches, you need to not go there). and, if the plugs are not common copper or nickel core, then they cannot be regapped(if they DID put copper or nickel core plugs in there, you need to go somewhere else). he might think they can be, but every plug manufacturer does not recommend regapping a plug with a precious metals tip(precious metals tip is like platinum, gold palladium, iridium, amongst others). beware of the "mechanics" who tell you they have been working on cars for 30 years, etc, because they might be set in their ways, and cannot cope with the new changes in automotive technology.

1526 although specifies the solenoid, and in a lot of cases it is, but the entire circuit that the vent solenoid is on should be inspected. realistically, the entire system of vacuum lines should be inspected. this is a labor intensive job, lots of stuff has to come off. the shop will lose money on this. you should first get an estimate on how much, then decide if it is worth it. i would expect at least 3 hours, if the estimate is less, they dont know what they are in for, and you might want to reconsider who works on your car. but i would at least start with getting the proper spark plugs in there. a few pieces that have to come off to get to the plugs also have to come off to get to the vacuum lines and tees. bottom line here is that very few "mechanics" out there have any experience with your car, and you are basically paying them to learn how to do things. most places will consult a flat rate guide and go by that. in the case of your car, the flat rates are usually not near enough, so if the job cannot be done in the quoted time, then they start looking for short cuts, or ignoring certain steps that are critical to completing the job correctly. it is going to get more expensive from here on, you might want to consider getting a different car.[/b]
This is where i am at with all of this. My mechanic had already worked on my car what he did was change the spark plugs and the direct ignition costing me $450.00 (parts&labor) When i picked up the car the check engine light was already on. He came out plug the machine in to see what the error code was, at first he said that the machine was showing DATA error then he said it was showing error P1526 he wasn't sure what error P1526 was because the machine read ABV open or short. I told him i do some online research as to what that error is and that's when i came on this forum. I then told my mechanic that error P1526 was a bad vent or vaccuum soleniod. Just to make sure that the right parts would be order i went ahead and order the parts myself. I placed an order through Tascaparts and order KJ03-18-741A (vent) and KJ02-18-741A (vaccum) I also order GNK plugs. I figured to place the order myself so this way i know he has put in the correct parts. What i am hoping is that he replaces the solenoids and plugs and hopefully resolve my problems. If i go to another mechanic i am afraid he is going to tell me something different and tell me that those are not the parts that is needed and i going to be taken for a ride $$$. I'm not sure what to do i feel since the car seems to be working worse then when i brought in the first place he just work with me and not charge me for replacing the plug since he used the wrong ones. But i am afraid he going to get pissed and screw me by doing a lousy job. Because like you said he may not be experience enough to work on this type of car and doesnt want to tell me. I dont know what to do i feel trapped what do you suggest.
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Old 03-05-2010, 06:27 PM
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You say "My mechanic", hopefully you have known him for awhile and it'll be no big deal. He may charge you a little extra for labor since he gets no mark up on the parts.
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