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i have a 2001 mazda mellinia and i have done every thing i can think of to fix this misfire issue. about a month ago i was forced to bypass the catalytic converter because it was so clogged it was shutting the car of all the time. about a week later theck cel came on and began blinking all the time and motor ran like crap. i changed plugs and wires but it still does it but only when the ac is on. can it be a weak alternator? can some one please help im sooo lost
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2.3 or 2.5?
How did you bypass the cat?
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![]() Get your Injectors Cleaned - Here Custom Cold Air / Short Ram Intakes - Click Here Gutted and Free Flowing Pre-Cats - Click Here Catalytic Converter/Resonator Test Pipes For Sale - Right Here Looking for a Hi-Output Alternator for your Millenia? Contact me.. I'll build you one. My other vehicle is UNMANNED Who writes the checks ASME SME SAE |
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Did you replace the distributor cap and rotor with new parts?
Did your cat core just crumble? That stuff is pretty hard to pull out.
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![]() Get your Injectors Cleaned - Here Custom Cold Air / Short Ram Intakes - Click Here Gutted and Free Flowing Pre-Cats - Click Here Catalytic Converter/Resonator Test Pipes For Sale - Right Here Looking for a Hi-Output Alternator for your Millenia? Contact me.. I'll build you one. My other vehicle is UNMANNED Who writes the checks ASME SME SAE |
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No i have not got to the cap yet it just perplexes me y just #3 is acting up and no the cat was pretty tight packed i bust the plates with hammer and screwdriver. I hated to do it but didnt have another option. Today im gonna take cap off and scrap it and hope that helps. And btw thank for trying to help me figure this out, cause im clueless
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Lightly file the contact points on the rotor and distributor. This is by no means a "fix". It can also make things worse by widening the gap between the points but it will at least let you know if this improve or worsens the situation. #3 might be misfiring because that is probably the worst contact point out of the 7 on the cap. I would order a new cap and rotor ASAP.
There really isn't much that can go wrong on the 2.5's ignition system. If the new cap and rotor doesn't fix the problem then the next step is to spec out your injectors with a multimeter. If that doesn't turn anything up then you should inspect the pickup points on your crank pulley and crank position senor. The points can get worn down and/or the sensor goes bad. The last step if all the above fail is to swap out your entire distributor with a known good one.
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![]() Get your Injectors Cleaned - Here Custom Cold Air / Short Ram Intakes - Click Here Gutted and Free Flowing Pre-Cats - Click Here Catalytic Converter/Resonator Test Pipes For Sale - Right Here Looking for a Hi-Output Alternator for your Millenia? Contact me.. I'll build you one. My other vehicle is UNMANNED Who writes the checks ASME SME SAE |
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oh yeah i just remembered,while toying around with it trying to trouble shoot i discovered that if i pull any other wire off the plug while the engine is running, there is a major change right, but when i pull off 3 the only difference i hear is at the distributer cap, it begins to click really loud and only quites down when i re[lace the wire.
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I would go out to any of the parts places and order a new cap and rotor right away. You will save a little by ordering parts from the link Saint posted but it seems in your case the $3 extra dollars is pretty well worth it.
__________________
![]() Get your Injectors Cleaned - Here Custom Cold Air / Short Ram Intakes - Click Here Gutted and Free Flowing Pre-Cats - Click Here Catalytic Converter/Resonator Test Pipes For Sale - Right Here Looking for a Hi-Output Alternator for your Millenia? Contact me.. I'll build you one. My other vehicle is UNMANNED Who writes the checks ASME SME SAE |
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