2002 Millenia Timing Belt Replacement - Mazda Forum

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Old 07-14-2012, 10:18 PM
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Default 2002 Millenia Timing Belt Replacement

Hey guys. Non-Mazda owner here about to do a timing belt on a 2002 Millenia that belongs to my girlfriend. The whole timing belt/water pump/etc. were done a couple years ago but it appears that one of the pulleys has been breaking apart inside of the timing belt cover. So while Iím in there I figured I would just do the whole replacement again. I'm not sure exactly which pulley has been separating so I will most likely have to tear it apart and then order that part accordingly.

Iíve never done a timing belt but Iím pretty experienced in the BMW scene. My current car is a 1990 325is with a 12v SOHC 2.5L M20. Being that it is an interference engine weíre pretty picky about our timing belt kits. For us itís OEM Continental or bust and ebay kits are a no go. That being said while searching this forum Iíve seen this kit suggested and it seems to be a good price for everything included:
95-02 2.5 1.8 L MAZDA TIMING BELT WATER PUMP KIT KL K8 | eBay

Seems to have most of what I need seeing as both valve cover gaskets are leaking as well. My other question is what other ďwhile youíre in thereĒ jobs should be done at the same time? Also what spark plug have you guys had the best success with? We generally stick to Bosch or NGK Copper Cores but I know these cars are a lot newer.

Is there a manual you guys rely on? For e30ís the Bentley manual is our bible. Anything comparable for Mazdas I can use for reference?

According to this guide: Timing Belt Removal, Inspection, and Installation
I see that I should be replacing timing belt cover gaskets and the oil dipstick o-ring. Is there a specific site or sites where you guys get the best prices on parts for Mazdas? Iíd prefer to avoid the stealer and all of my online dealers are BMW specific so I donít know where to go to get her the best prices without sacrificing quality.

That same guide mentions installing the right engine mount at step 6 without previous mention. Does the engine need to be lifted for this job? Is the engine mount removal/reinstallation necessary or simply a suggested step?

Lastly any special tools I may need or other parts I'm overlooking? Iíll be picking up a new torque wrench to ensure I hit the right torques but I think Iím covered on most of the others unless there is something unique to this car. Does the auto tensioner come pressed together already or am I going to need to find a shop with a press to compress it for me? Thanks guys I appreciate the help.

Sorry for the long first post!
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:05 AM
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That kit does not include the hydraulic tensioner. It comes compressed with a pin. You will need to remove and compress it a few times as you will surely not get the timing spot on the first time. I have a "DIY" write-up on how to do that with your jack at home if you don't have a proper press.

Check to make sure your water pump has the proper pulley flange before you buy that kit too.

The passenger motor mount will have to be removed and engine supported with either a engine lift or engine support bar.

The valve covers and intake manifold do not need to come off to do a timing job on the 2.5 and should be tackled as a whole project on its own.

The whole job can pretty much be done with just a few 10mm and 12mm sockets/wrench and a 23mm?? impact socket for the crank pulley. The only thing you'd probably want is a good impact gun to zip off that crank pulley.

Like with any job, be it BMW or Mazda the very first time you do it, it surely will suck! After that it just becomes common sense. There is plenty of help on here to get you through it in the event you get snagged.
Good Luck

Last edited by yel-low; 07-15-2012 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:26 AM
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i have done both bmw and mazda belts, but our mazda's are 2.3. i think the 2.3 timing belt is WAY more difficult than the M20. especially the water pump. on the 2.3, there is a crossover pipe that connects to the upper rad hose, and this has 2 o rings that you MUST get. to get the water pump out, you gotta loosen all the bolts, then there is this sheet metal plate and the crossover pipe that you kinda wiggle out first. crazy design. the actual motor mount bracket has to come off to get it all out. a water pump on the m20 is right there, on the 2.3 it is like an entirely new job by itself, but i would definitely change it with the belt. however, the mazda belt interval is 105k, not 60, and the engine is not interference. on the m20, we always changed the cam/crank/aux shaft seals, on the mazda, the cam seals are a real bitch to get to, but if you are doing the valve cover gaskets, you might want to get them, too. make sure your valve cover gaskets have the half moons, and the little plugs that go by the cam seals. a head set might be a good idea. generally, the cam and crank seals last a long time. again, this is a 2.3, and the tensioner i think sits different, but when lining up the belt, where it snakes around the crank sprocket, you need something to jam in there to keep it against the sprocket. i found that a wooden clothes pin is perfect, and i now have a couple in my tool box. i also really like the gearwrench serpentine belt tool, it is way better than the kd one, and the 2.3 has 2 automatic tensioners, which are a bit tricky to get off. bleeding the cooling system after the water pump on this last job really kicked my ass, and i ended up buying the airlift vacuum system:
UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit
there is also an economy version for less. now this is the ONLY way i change coolant in a car. if you know anyone that has an E38 740, they will tell you what a bitch bleeding the cooling system is. all the good shops use a vacuum system.
u joint sockets are really handy in this job, like these:
Northern Industrial Universal Joint Sockets ó 3/8in. Drive, 7-Pc. SAE Set | 3/8in. Drive Sets| Northern Tool + Equipment
also, ratcheting box end wrenches, and a good assortment of extensions. a magnetic pick up tool is invaluable. i would not do this job without impacts(mine is 600ft/lbs, a wimpy one will not get it done), esp for the crank pulley. oh, and BEFORE you remove the serpentine belts, loosen the nut/bolts on the power steering pump and the water pump pulleys, or you will be sorry. on the power steering pulley, this has 4 holes on the outer rim, and you can use a couple of long 6mm bolts to anchor it if you have to, but the water pump pulley is smooth, and only a really good strap wrench will work if you pull the belt before loosening the bolts. on the 2.3, i think there are 3 different length 6mm bolts holding on the belt cover, and you will go crazy trying to remember which ones go where. you might want to take a piece of cardboard, and draw a pic of the cover, and put the bolts in the corresponding place. also, there is a metal pipe for the vacuum pump that must come off and go on before some other parts can come off/go on. this is one of the few times you will wish you had a 2.5 instead of a 2.3, if you do have a 2.3
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:46 AM
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Yel-low:

Is the hydraulic tensioner not the "timing belt tensioner" listed here?

Package Includes:
1 TIMING BELT
1 TIMING BELT TENSIONER
1 TIMING BELT IDLER ROLLER (UPPER)
1 TIMING BELT IDLER ROLLER (LOWER)
2 CAM SEALS
1 CRANK SEAL
2 VALVE COVER GASEKTS
24 GROMMETS
1 WATER PUMP

Also what am I looking for with the water pump pulley flange?

Is there a different kit, or a website anyone can point me to for Mazda parts? I get everything from blunttech.com and pelicanparts.com but clearly neither carry Mazda parts. What would your comparable vendors be?

kenin:

I believe this engine is the 2.5L as it isn't the supercharged version. Does the 2.5 variety have the same concerns?

Again any online vendor I can start finding some of these additional parts (o-rings etc.)? For BMW we use realoem.com for all of our parts diagrams. Anything similar for Mazda?

Thanks guys. Looks like I'll be sourcing a beefy impact before I start this job. I've been meaning to get one to swap the output flange on my e30 anyway so this should be a great excuse.
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Old 07-15-2012, 12:07 PM
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That "tensioner" in the kit is just the pulley assembly that the hydraulic tensioner pushes against. You will need to order that part separately.

On the early 2.5 models the water pump had a stepped flange on where the pulley bolts to the pump. You will have to check what type of pulley you have and order the proper pump.

I usually get my timing kits off ebay for the 2.5 and all other parts from Rockauto. I know there is a bad stigma with ebay kits but the 2.5 is pretty robust and when you take the timing belt off you will realize it probably could have gone another 100K miles on the original belt. The only flaky part I would be hesitant to buy as a kit is the water pump. I would revert to Rockauto and buy a quality one rather than some cheap clone.

You might also want to do a search for the replacement NAPA bearings that you can press out of your alt and ps tensioner pulleys. Those bearing do go bad after a while. There are part numbers listed for both on here.
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:19 PM
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this is a site with the factory epc. however, the pricing is high. this place used sugg list price for your cost, if you go to tasca, you will get another 20%

Mazda Parts - OEM Factory Replacement Mazda Parts | Jim Ellis Mazda

tasca:

TascaParts.com

i like the gmb water pumps for the mazda. tasca is genuine parts only, no aftermarket. you can also go to parts.com, this is the huge autonation group, and they have pricing the same as mazda. however, handling charges are much higher. but because of the huge dealer network, you will probably get your parts a lot quicker, and shipped from a local dealer. they have all car lines, including bmw. i was in the wholesale bmw parts business for 20+ years.
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Old 07-15-2012, 02:54 PM
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I've sworn by tascaparts.com for years. The last couple orders I went with parts.com. The prices at parts.com are identical to tascaparts.com. The only difference is the shipping might be about one percent more at parts.com. But, over the years tasca has been taking longer and longer to get the parts shipped out to me. Lately, it's been taking about a week and a half from time of order to time it is at my front door with Tasca. But Parts.com, I usually get the parts within about 4 days.

So, I've been making the switch over to parts.com, because it is worth the extra dollar to dollar and a half to get the parts to my door in half the time.

Plus, I had a recent problem with tasca when they sent me a broken part. Tasca has been great when everything goes well. But if you have to return something, good luck to you, the customer service is like Doctor Jekyll and Mr Hyde. Doctor Jekyll when things go well, but they quickly become Mr Hyde when you try and contact them with an issue. (won't return phone calls or emails, blow you off, get angry at you on the phone, try and make it like it is your fault, try and make it like it is UPS' fault, etc.) Eventually I had to escallate to a Paypal claim before Tasca returned my money. And they only returned my money after Paypal twisted there arm and forced them to.
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:50 PM
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i also had a problem with tasca, they send me a rack boot that obviously had been returned, and the bands were missing. i dont remember all that happened, but i threatened them with backcharging my credit card, and then they took it back. i still say the ship/handling charges are higher at parts.com, but they are much faster. i am sure that tasca puts in the parts request with their weekly stock order from mazda, whereas parts.com just orders it that day from their regional warehouse. with parts.com, i actually spoke to the dealership parts guy, who was only about 40 miles from my house. however, if i had tried to buy parts direct from them, i would have paid about 30% more. i had one problem with the parts.com people, they sent me an upper strut mount that was missing a stud. obviously a manufacturing error. i sent them an email, and a couple days later, i get another mount, no charge. i was amazed.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:56 PM
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Any thoughts on this technique for removing the crankshaft pulley bolt?

Crankshaft Holding Tool - 1993-2002 (2L) I4 - Mazda626 Forums

Also is it possible to lift the engine with a jack/wood blocks from below to access the motor mount? Is there enough space and am I likely to crack the oil pan via this method?
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlamedIAm View Post
Any thoughts on this technique for removing the crankshaft pulley bolt?

Crankshaft Holding Tool - 1993-2002 (2L) I4 - Mazda626 Forums

Also is it possible to lift the engine with a jack/wood blocks from below to access the motor mount? Is there enough space and am I likely to crack the oil pan via this method?
i always use my impact for the crank pulley bolt. if this is the first time coming off, it will really be ON there. on the 2.3, the pulley also has like 8 8mm bolts, and you might be able to use some really long 8mm bolts and jam a prybar, but you may end up bending the bolts. and i always use a floor jack with a block of wood to jack the engine
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