Issues with KLZE swap, why not plug n play?

[Trex]

New member here, with a question I havent been able to find the answer to after hours of research. I have a 95 mazda 626 v6 and it appears as though my swap is one of a kind because its most certainly not quite plug and play like everyone claims it should be. The sensor directly below the fuel rails in the center of the head originally had 2 wires routed to it, on my klde. however, my klze has only one wire routed to it and the connector is a completely different shape that doesnt line up with my klde wire harness connector. Is there a way around this without disassembling my IM to swap out the sensor with the klde sensor? it is the curve neck klze btw, it was $250 cheaper and Im begginning to think it was out of an obd2 model. also, the alternator had a 3 prong connector so I had to swap it out with the old, and my A/C compressor bolt patterns dont line up with the block at all so I just installed a shorter belt for now. so far there has been quite an endless list of incompatability issues which does not sound common at all, so if anyone has experienced anything like this at all, any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

[Goliat6288]

wow that sucks. i did the swap on my millenia and it was plug and play. i wish i could help out more but unfortunately i cant. heres is a site i looked at before doing the swap and make sure it was plug and play on my car. hopefully it gives you some info that helps you out.

Klze Faq - Mazda MX6 Forums: MX6 Forum

[Trex]

alright, well I figured out what sensor in particular is not plugging at the connector, it is the knock sensor and the connectors are shaped differently. and the sensor has only one wire unlike my original motor, the harness connector has two wires other wise I would have just swapped out the connectors. then I also have two ports that appear to be for coolant hoses of some sort that I cant decipher what they are or what hooks up to them where, one is right beside the radiator hose above the clutch line. the other is on the back passenger side of the intake manifold. is anyone familiar with these? because my klde did not have either of those two. and I cant find a location for the vacuum line comming from the canister beside the brake booster. once I get these figured out my car will run and drive.

[Goliat6288]

my KLZE had a port for something on the front valve cover. all that was done was use the valve covers of the de in my millenia, i dont know if thats the same port youre talking about. the other one beside the radiator hose i have no idea. i didnt do the swap myself but i was in the shop giving a hand alot of the time and i never saw that.

post some pics up of the ports if you can so i can better understand what youre talking about.

[Xedosman]

The factory knock sensor has two wires, at least it did on my engine. However the new sensor I put in had one wire, and featured a wiring harness which connected the singlewire sensor to the twowire connector on the car. The second wire is earth, and I just bolted it to the IM. You may want to look up my guide in the Millenia section: Knock sensor replacement guide for the KL 2,5.
I suggest you get a new knock sensor with a harness and replace it as preventive maintenance. They tend to fail.

The tubing on the rear of the head may be the rear PCV tube. Provide us with some pics

[Trex]

so I can just ground out that second wire from the knock sensor connector to the IM? Im tryin to get this car on the road asap, its my transportation so Im trying to avoid taking anything apart at this point. I still need to T off the two vacuum lines at the prc, but where do I reroute the vacuum line thats supposed to go to the egr? Do I hook up the egr sensors now and just delete it later? any pointers are greatly appreciated, especially if you notice anything in the pictures that you wouldnt mind mentioning I should do differently.

[Trex]

so do I need to drill out the location for this black clip on the passenger side of the IM? I already took the nipple for it out of the de IM. also, is there any purpose for all these sensor connectors anymore?? I already have the one with the blue clip connected to the rear O2 sensor, so there is whats visible in these photos plus two or three more down by the rear motor mount with no connecting points. does that sound about right??

[Xedosman]

Originally Posted by Trex

so I can just ground out that second wire from the knock sensor connector to the IM? Im tryin to get this car on the road asap, its my transportation so Im trying to avoid taking anything apart at this point. I still need to T off the two vacuum lines at the prc, but where do I reroute the vacuum line thats supposed to go to the egr? Do I hook up the egr sensors now and just delete it later? any pointers are greatly appreciated, especially if you notice anything in the pictures that you wouldnt mind mentioning I should do differently.

One of the wires to the knock sensor should be zero ohms towards the sensor housing, and that wire may just as well be isolated because the sensor gets ground from the block as well. The other wire should measure something like 60 -100 ohms towards earth on the sensor, if I remember correctly. That is the wire which must be connected to the harness in the car to make the circuit work. A sensor malfunction means code P0325 is evident, and really crappy torque upwards 4500 rpm due to retarded ignition to prevent knock. Been there done that.

Regarding your other questions; I believe the easiest route would be to swap over the KLDE intake and exhaust manifolds and downpipes. Might steal some ponies but should solve most of your connector issues. And you can keep the stock EGR setup. Just my 2 cents, I'm definitely no expert

[Goliat6288]

Originally Posted by Xedosman

Regarding your other questions; I believe the easiest route would be to swap over the KLDE intake and exhaust manifolds and downpipes. Might steal some ponies but should solve most of your connector issues. And you can keep the stock EGR setup. Just my 2 cents, I'm definitely no expert

Actually this is what is done. i was assuming this was done, if not then there is your problem. def keep the DEs IM, EM and downspipes.

[Trex]

ok, here is an update. I dont need to worry about emissions and my egr system is bad anyways so im sticking with no egr. The motor itself was more than likely out of a 98+ jdm millenia and I would like to keep it so as is with the complete setup, it seems more beneficial for the efforts. I figured out that the vacuum nipple on the TB gets routed to the purge solenoid valve then to the charcoal canister. I am assuming the nipple on the rear passenger side of the IM is a vacuum line i just cant locate where it needs to route to, I havent found it in any vacuum diagrams even though it appears to be for a vacuum chamber of some sort. In fact, someone has to know, it is right next to the VRIS solenoid #1 and I can not trace it down in any pictures or forum discussions so far. Now for the last of my problems thus far, there is a smaller coolant line below the distributor and I have not found a place for it to be routed to either. any suggestions from previous experience or current knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Pictures would be perfect if you have a similar setup. Thank you for your time, and others for your current advice-it is certainly helpful.