Klze swap not starting

[Trex]

I have a 95 626 that I swapped a klze motor into because the last one was toasted but would still start but run rough. After all the research and conversions I have made the car won't start now. The battery reads 12.8 volts and so does the starter until the key is turned them it drops to 5 volts. All the connections check out good and just about everything has been tested and passed. Compression starting attempts have led to jammed geArs and I have bled the clutch for a half hour accordingly. Any suggestions?

[MonoxideChild]

sounds like a wiring issue somewhere. or your battery just needs a charge.

[Trex]

This email was sent to ExtremeThings regarding my converted ecu and the issues I am encountering with my ignition system that didnt exist before the swap and ecu conversion.
I have installed a brand new battery, starter motor and replaced some wiring just to be sure there's less uncertainties. Also I have rebuilt my distributor with new parts and it is still not getting spark, even with original disty swapped over. Now the engine cranks and gets fuel with plenty of compression, just no spark to the plugs. I'm assuming you knew it was a obd2 motor being plugged with a obd1 harness and that you tuned the ecu accordingly so that it should just be plug and play after I made the necessary conversions with the harness (like the knock sensor's 2 to 1 wire). However, the new extreme ecu is throwing the same codes at me as my oem one was, all egr codes + knock sensor (which is actually a new code). I thought you had deleted the egr codes, but either way the knock sensor shouldnt stop my car from firing up, right? Also there was no existing crank shaft position sensor so I added the one to the klze from my klde, which I was sure would prevent it from starting if I hadn't. So far only cylinder #4 gets spark maybe once every 12 revolutions or so. Oh and I tested voltage in the disty connectors, in the 6pin connector it reads 4v on the 4th pin and 0.04v at the 6th pin closest to the firewall (like there is an open circuit), then a constant 12v wire in the 3 pin connector (tested with key in on position and start position). Half way through testing the disty my starter stopped cranking the motor over--still full battery. And keep in mind everything worked fine before the swap, I drove the car untill the rod knock started then I did this swap and now 6 months later it seems I will never get to drive it again, and this isn't my first rodeo either, just my first klze swap. Does any of this seem within your realm of knowledge that you wouldnt mind shining some light with on this disaster of a jdm swap? Anything would be appreciated, thank you.
Would anyone on the forum here mind checking disty voltage and compare it with mine and possibly discuss the results with me? or do any of you know where I can access some of this information? because I have spent alot of time researching this motor and I feel like this is technical information that is beyond your typical research.
The car kicks over strong and wants to fire up, but neither ECU will do the trick, brand new everything. Suggestions please??