1990 929s alt. belt missalignment

[donbryce]

Here's a good on-line source of general and some specific details for repair/servicing the 929. Might get you through until you can locate a manual. I see official shop manuals all the time on EBay (which is where I got mine). Some go for under $20.00 too. First one I spot I'll post the link...bidding and winning one will be up to you

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?F...23d8017cf66.jsp

I think the timing belt recommended change is every 96,000 KM (memory, I'll check and correct later today if it's wrong).

I can email the pages from the manual for changing the belt if you want.

[9ine Deuce]

it is every 96Kms

question - if my my belt was changed at 112Kms that means I dont have to change it till 208Kms ? I wanna drive back (making back to Halifax is another issue) to Vancouver (6000Kms) this summer, will I make it there without I timing belt issues ??? Im at 196Kms right now

Also my rad is leaking a bit from the top tank in which I have attempted to fix with JB Weld, which I plan to sand down and do it again properly. Do you think this will also be a problem during my 60 hour road trip ? Isnt JB Weld a permanent fix ? This again relates back to Mazda plastics from the late 80's which Im starting to no have faith in, I cracked my dash with my knee a couple of weeks ago

[donbryce]

Hi 9ine. Yes, 96,000KM's after the last change would be 208,000. Right now, at 196,000, you are 84,000 into the scheduled 96,000, so have about 12,000 to go.

On the plastics issue, JB Weld is basically a 2-part epoxy that works really well on aluminum and steel, but not so well on the type of plastic typically found on cars. You already know this, of course. I've tried all kinds of stuff over the years, from Canadian Tire's 'Flexible Plastic' repair to 'Seal-All' to several other componds that you'd have a hard time finding around here (PC-7, Belzona Molecular, eg.). None of them have ever bonded permanently to hard plastic, but some are better than others at 'sticking'.

That's why I suggest using a pop riveted patch to do the holding and let the compound do the sealing. Sanding down the area around the leak with rough paper (80 grit) is a good start, to give the compound an etched surface to bite into. Clean well with solvent. Laquer thinner works good. All you need is a thin layer over the cleaned, sanded, and dry hole/crack. Cut your patch piece in advance, prepare the surface, then mix up your choice of sealer and stick the patch on before the sealer sets up. Drill holes and apply a dab of sealer, then pop rivet the patch on nice and tight.

Of course, your leak might be in a hard to reach spot, or the surface is too uneven to use a patch. In that case, you'll have to do the best you can without one. Take a tube of Seal-All with you. I've used it to stop gasoline leaks in a pinch. It won't bond permanently either, though, so shouldn't be considered a final fix.

[gettocar]

9ine
pls. see my last several posts, as relates to your problem ( and mine). 929 plastics really and trully SUCK! This is ALSO true for the 929 jag. style. My wife, whom really wanted gettocar, before paint probs., REALLY, REALLY, wanted the newer model. When I checked out one at a used-up-car-lot, years ago, the same plastic parts were broken on it also! FORGET-ABOUT-IT! The plastics SUCK. If you want to fix your dash..... do what I did... get a junk-yard part (which also sucks) cut-out the parts on it that are still serviceable, go to your local building supply house find any & all possible plastic pieces that might be usable from, various depeartments, buy them, mod them, and replace the parts on yours that are broken. Try to make it look as natural as possible.
Use about 4 different glues & epoxy's to attach, be VERY genteel in reatching all, and then do not get miffed when they crack & break again because you let your HAM-FISTED, FAT, LYING, NO-GOOD in-laws use/buy your 929.
Donbrice is cool, right?
I try not to use-up helpfull folks by asking the same thing many times over, untill I get the answer that I REALLY want, which is, ofcourse, how do I fix somthing, unfixable, for nothing. (OK, Don, I still try, but I am ever-more sensitive about pushing-it)
You REALLY CANNOT fix a PLASTIC part, UNDER PRESSURE, w/an EXTERNAL patch! NEVER GON'NA HAPPEN!
INTERNAL, Maybe, as it entirely depends upon the pressures and chem. comp. of fluids involved.
Yes, an external patch, as Donbrice has suggested, may work for the temp. SHORT term ( suggest adding a oversized (much larger than hole) heavy sheetmetal piece for patch along with a custom-cut gasket and the most heat/chem-resistant gunk that you can find. (Do not be surprised when the holes
for the rivets (required) also leak, or split, as your plastic SUCKS,is old,brittle(likeme),and wants nothing more than to go to that bigauto-retirement-home-in-the-sky)
As an INTERNAL patch would require removing the top of the tank from the rad. itself to patch, well, you see where this goes...... New raid. commeth. for 9in
Again, new raid. avail for you..... @ autobodypartsonline.com for $160us. From all the mods. you list for your ride.... you have spent some $ allready.... spend some more and let it keep a COOL HEAD!
I' m not a smart-ass... really........ just an old (been there-done-that) broke-ass..
yours..... gettocar.
Don..... tks again, will follow-your-leader......

[gettocar]

Donbrice,
Followed ur lead to a-zone repair.
looks like Haynes man. (gave up-on chilton's 25yrs ago, TOTALLY frustrating) Haynes is good for a j-strap, but not a cup-protector..... ie: get's you just so far, then leaves ya hanging, hurt'en and unprotected. Is why I went to a, modlel specfic, manufacture-rep-man. yrs. ago. (if found & affordable)
TKS for the ser. life on the timming belt. I think that I'm OK w/that, for now. If 9nie reads this, and do'es the belt, I hope he knows to do the water pump while He's there. Silly not to, once yur allready there.

[gettocar]

This is just to closeout, put the fine' on this thread, for anyone whom may need this info in the future.

Turns out that there was nothing wrong w/alt. or mount.

The problem was actually the plastic timming cover that had split
along the inside corner at the flange where it's attached to the engine. This allowed the timcov itself to project into the path of the alt. belt and confuse the issue, untill, I did what I should'a
to begin with. ie. start w/a complete and proper inspection before
ya go off half-cocked.

New timming cov (1/2 of a cover, actually on a '90 929s DOHC.) $150+tax,us$ Mazda ONLY part, natch)

Well, thats-that. At least untill I get the shop man I bought on ebay, and actually go to install it.