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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2008, 10:07 PM
NoD NoD is offline
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sim prolly knows what he is talking about since he is a Zap Bits Auto Electrician.
but its not necessary to go too big. just aslong as you dont burn anything up


i changed the rear struts without tearing into the backseat, so ill atleast try to go in the backway.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 03:31 AM
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Dam mazdaspeed, can u downsize the pics a little before you post them, my system must be as fast as the rest cause it takes a loooooong time to load. Cheers.

BTW nice work with the bar, looks like a nice easy fit. How is the bar for strength, just looks a little nasty from those pics.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2008, 01:32 AM
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Quote:
Dam mazdaspeed, can u downsize the pics a little before you post them, my system must be as fast as the rest cause it takes a loooooong time to load. Cheers.

BTW nice work with the bar, looks like a nice easy fit. How is the bar for strength, just looks a little nasty from those pics.[/b]
Sorry man can't help it, I just got a new camera and I'm a bit snap happy. I haven't driven the car yet b/c the it's still on jack stands, I'm waiting for the KDM rear links to drive it. What looks a little nasty?
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Old 08-31-2008, 02:16 PM
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My next project was to fit the KDM red/clear taillights to my car. I replaced the orange turn signal bulbs with chrome stealth bulbs for a cleaner look front and back. I also upgraded the reverse lights to high out put xenon bulbs, they're really bright, like having headlights in the back.



Broadway rear view


I added some chrome foil tape and chrome stealth bulbs up front, looks really clean.


::::How to fit the KDM series 1.3 red/clear taillights to a USDM 929::::
Start buy removing the stock taillights and trunk chrome trim if you have a series 1 929. It's all 10mm bolts and Philips screws. Since you've already got the taillights off use the as opportunity to clean mounting area up. It should look like this when you're done:


Next mount the outer sections and the KDM trim. These just go in like the stock ones do, simple. Make sure the chrome strip on the trunk in nice and tight, there shouldn't be any movement in the middle were the dip is. There is a center emblem that goes in the dip, but I opted not to mount it.


The last part is to mount the center sections. These do not just bolt in like the outer sections do. The reason is because there are 3 bulbs on the KDM centers compared to 2 in the USDM centers. The bolt positions do line up, so you have to make room for the new bulb positions. These plastic things have to be removed.



The finished product, Before:

After:
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Old 09-05-2008, 10:30 PM
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Over the weekend, I'm planning on pulling the alternator so I can send it out to the rebuild shop. I'm also going to have it chrome plated. I've settled on upping the output to 150-175 amps heavy duty. My reasoning is that I the stock one puts out like 65-70 amp and that is maxed out to run the car and the stock accessories, when I add the dual thermos that will be about 40 amps more. I'll need at least 110 amps, so 150-175 is a good cushion for future work. The stock power wires are like 8 gauge and that isn't going to be able the handle the new alternator's power, so I'm upgrading the positive, negative and starter lead wire to 1 gauge with a kit I ordered from Summit.

I'm also going to add a custom shift knob. For a while I was debating on the shift knob. The 2 that I was down to were the KDM knob or this universal aftermarket one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Automatic-S...itemZ7962866195

Well, I picked the aftermarket one. I test fit it today and it looks like there is going to need a lot of modifications to make it work right. Does Anyone know how to fix the shifter wobble? The **** lever moves so much that you'd mistake it for a manual.
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Old 09-06-2008, 05:56 PM
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you will need to order bushes from Mazda,

there are four in total, two on the shifter, and two on the shifter shaft (the one that goes from the shifter to Gearbox)

here is a link from HC WORKS (use a translator for that one)

http://www.geocities.co.jp/MotorCity/2458/...ionlinkage1.htm

its not that difficult, fiddly, the way i do it, i remove whole assembly from the interior then replace the bushes in the shifter (they are tough to fit) - also remember to grease down there
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
you will need to order bushes from Mazda,

there are four in total, two on the shifter, and two on the shifter shaft (the one that goes from the shifter to Gearbox)

here is a link from HC WORKS (use a translator for that one)

http://www.geocities.co.jp/MotorCity/2458/...ionlinkage1.htm

its not that difficult, fiddly, the way i do it, i remove whole assembly from the interior then replace the bushes in the shifter (they are tough to fit) - also remember to grease down there [/b]
I love you man. Well I'm guessing that the new shift knob isn't going to get done any time soon.
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Old 09-07-2008, 10:13 PM
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Here is the front draft strut bar mounted up. It hits the a/c line a bit near the strut mount but it'll go in without any problems. Also popped in a new coolant overflow.



Alt is out and is on it's way to the rebuild shop and to be chrome plated. Here it is looking all nasty:


The new 1-gauge wire kit, anti-corrosion discs and plastic terminal covers.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 05:43 PM
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I'm working out the details for the custom alternator. The shop is looking into a 150 amp one form a newer Mazda and having that one wired to work with my car. But they need to find a pulley that will fit it and work with my car. If that doesn't work out, I'm going to have the stock one rebuilt to a heavy duty 150 amps.

I'm making payment on the next KDM order tomorrow (3 sets of rear links, 2 digital HVAC's, 1 poly bushings kit, and HVAC LED kit). I ordered the adapter for my HIDs to wire my KDM projectors, so expect the write up for that soon. I'm going to hit up Mazda for the shifter linkage bushings, rack bushings and some some other bushings. There is a good chance that I'm going to have them sent out to be made into poly. Here is the link to there site: www.goturethane.com Is any one interested in doing getting some more bushings to add to their KDM poly kits?

When the alternator went out a while back on my car. Some of the warning lights on my dash stopped working. I'm going to check the bulbs but if that's not it, does anyone have any ideas about what happened?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2008, 10:45 PM
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I picked up the new alternator today. It is a 150 amp rated. The guy got me a pulley to match and made a adapter to pug in to my harness. I'm going to mount it up to the with the stock power wires run it and if it fits and there aren't any probems with the pulley lining up then I going to give it back to the shop and have it taken apart to be chrome plated. Over the weekend I'll set up the 1-gauge wire kit. At 800 rpm it puts out a little over 100amps and it hits peak output at 2100 rpm.

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