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Old 09-15-2008, 10:58 AM
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OK, my earlier posts had to do with possibly loosing the car due to a major failure of the TB. I also wrecked a head trying to drill out the broken bolt, drilled through the water jacket. Now, according to the GATES belt site, this IS an interference motor and quite possibly bent some valves. I can get heads for about 300 each but I also found a motor for $350.00 w/90 day warranty it has 98000 miles on it. It's close enough that I can pick it up. I am NOT able to swap this motor myself and would need it done at a shop (not Mazda but an expensive good shop). Removing the heads, this looks like a bear of a job. Can both heads be removed by disconnecting the exhaust system but leaving the manifolds on during the process? What's a reasonable price for swapping a motor?
Now if I do go the motor route I would like to be sure I'm in good shape for a while, I plan to change the TB and the rear Cam covers. The other part that leaked on my cars is the blind cover and the thing for the EGR valve. I would also think I should replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets. The rear main seal, is that an easy job? I should do that too right?

So, opinion, what makes more sense, try to fix my broken motor or just replace it and be done with it. I think I am willing to go as high as $2000.00 US to get this back up and running.

Thanks for any and all input.
Rich M
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Old 09-15-2008, 12:19 PM
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it's easy to take the head's off. just takes time about a hour or so once you get the manifold bolts and the intake bolts does its a breeze
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Old 09-15-2008, 02:05 PM
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take the head off and see if how bad is first. if all it needs is a new head, change the head. I would find it difficult to explain to people that the car has 66000 miles, so I put a 98k motor in it.
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Old 09-15-2008, 03:41 PM
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I'm with D on this one, if the motor is ok but it only needs the heads, I'd stick with the 66k motor and rebuild or replace the heads.
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Old 09-15-2008, 05:42 PM
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taking the head of sounds like a big job. But its just about taking some bolts off.

i would suggest getting a mazda manual, everything gets easier when u got some overview of the job.
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Old 09-16-2008, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
taking the head of sounds like a big job. But its just about taking some bolts off.

i would suggest getting a mazda manual, everything gets easier when u got some overview of the job.[/b]
Actually I do have the official orange manual for the car, even the BIG size one used in the shops. I'm going to take off the head (s?) and replace it (them). The big concern I have is the manuals are written for the experienced mechanic. I'm a hacker but have been hacking for 40 years. I will be bugging the list here during re-assembly. I am thinking the heads should be set with the timing belt position indicator pointing to where the book says for changing the belt. Then, since the hreads are off I am going to rotate the engine so #1 is at TDC and the crank indicator is spot on to where it would be at TB change time. I'd then set the distributor so it's ready to spark #1. This is where I would start the reassembly of the heads to the block. hopefully.
I am finding it hard to find timing belt covers. If anyone knows the part number for them it would be highly apprciated. Mine were totally distroyed by TB failure.
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Old 09-24-2008, 07:54 PM
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[Taking the heads off this car is not easy! There is about 700 things to disconnect, label, bag ETC. I have the right side head off. The center manifold was difficult, manifold nuts themselves, pretty easy. There is a lot of work involved with this job if you've never done it before. The head bolts needed a 24 in breaker and a pipe to loosen. Not easy. You need a GOOD 12 point socket for those bolts. I'll try to get the left side off this weekend. I can't see "hoping" the valves weren't hurt. On the Right side I see an ever so slight nick on the rear piston, but can't see any evidence of bent valves. Heads are going to a shop regardless. This is a bloody knckles job. I hope I can get it all back together. I have my reference car, another 89 to help with re-assembly plus I wrote down virtually everything I did. There's just not a lot of room to work in there. The manifold heat shields had to really be monkeyed with to come out. I pretty fortunate, no broken bolts, no rounded heads. The only thing I broke was a plastic vacuum hose. One of my injector connections was broken too but not by me. Spring clip is missing and there's a small piece of housing missing from the injector connector. I am wondering if this motor has been apart before, but it doesn't seem so. If we get a little dose of indian summer here in the northeast this year I just might be running again in a month.
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Old 09-25-2008, 12:21 AM
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on another note to guys id rather have the engine out if i take the heads off..

cause you should get the block decked to make sure the new gasket will seal when the new heads go on..

nothing worse than going to half the effort and blow a head gasket 6 months down the tracl (if it does happen that is).

im not a risk take though as ive been caught out before and have had to replace and engine..
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:51 PM
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A gentleman replyed to me on another post regarding this issue that the SOHC was a non-interference motor. Gates site said it was. Gates was WRONG (under certain circumstances), and I apologize to the gentleman. Apparently if the belt BREAKS the valves all slam shut. I guess if the belt just skips than maybe there would be damage. I've got both heads off and all the valves are closed, pistons look fine. I killed myself for NOTHING! Could have had this fixed for $500.00. Now I have to do a ton of work to reassemble. right head needs to be repaired and probably can be. Regardless, I'm sure the left is fine. I'm just trying not to freak-out about what I've done. On the plus side, I'll have all my oil leak problems fixed and the broken inhjector thing should be ok after I'm done. Yes, the thing at the crank used for installing the belt is top dead center on cyl #1 so I should be able to reassemble correctly. My enemy is time and now the weather. 4 days of rain coming.
One thing I noticed, the flange connections for the exhaust system, the center manifold and the main down pipe connection didn't have gaskets. I'm thinking to use a little permatex here during re-assembly. This is a fun job now that I don't care if it gets done quickly, but never again. The only head I'll ever pull again will be off my lawn mower :-)
GASKET KIT QUESTION Are the ebay 50-60 dollar sets OK or should I spring for the 3-400 set with felpro etc.
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Old 09-25-2008, 11:30 PM
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i,ve never bought ebay gaskets to know..sorry

but my philosphy still applies.

saving that couple of bucks on a copy could cost you more down the track..

but upto you really..
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