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Well my water pump went out on my 9.
With me working at a junk yard we have a lot of 929 out there. I notice that there are 2 types of turbines on the water pump for the 929.HD/Hc are the will work with no problem but depending on what year you motor was make will give you problems. Some water pump's will cause you cr to run much cooler causeing no heat(which i found out the hard way) The 2 pump will make car run too hot. Found out from the Dealer Mazda changed the pump cause of the poor water flow that the motor's had cuase of the set up with the therm. houseing. So wiht my car I wasn't going threw all the changeing. So i have to change my hose's to a smaller size so i could have heat during this cold winter and still have to block of 80% of my rad to keep the rad warm cause the Pump is spinign so fast.
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I noticed that my 88" 929 runs runs a lot cooler than my 89". The 89" had a bad water pump when bought it. When I replaced it, I did notice that the replacement pump had a different turbine than the OEM pump. Also the replacement radiators have smaller upper hose connectors. The temp gauge on my 88" goes up to the vary bottom of the safe range. The 89" sits at 1/4 on the gauge, which is hotter then the 88". Both ran fine and with out overheating issues. But I always thought that was weird. So there was a design change done to the cooling system? When? What years have the change?
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ---My Rides---
"89 Mazda 929, 3.o SOHC, Blue Mica/blue "88 Mazda 929, 3.o SOHC, White/blue ---Mazda HC 929 Aftermarket(click me)--- |
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Lol, my bad you wouldn't even know I a college degree by the way I type.
The only change was the turbine on the water pump. 1. has a deep houseing,with turn's more water 2. has a flat shaft in which depending on the year your car is will make your car temp. go crazy
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cause ive got the rotary version there is only one pump.
plus i learnt the hardway on a previous car.. when a pump packs it in.. ALWAYS 1. buy new from the dealer (as some aftermarket versions are **** and buying second hand doesnt garenty its ok or better than what you got) 2. always replace the thermostat as if the engine got hot chances are the thermostat is fried and wont work properly. 3. always flush and back flush the engine to clean out any deposit build up. as the better flow from a new pump can dislodge sediment and cause more issues. ie blocking radiators 4. always use the manufacturer recomended coolant for the engine when replacing. 5. get a 2 litre coke bottle and cut the bum out of it (the end it sits on) then poke the nozzle of the bottle into the radiator filler spot and use electrical tape and keep going around and around up and down filler/bottle assembly until its water tight. then fill system with coolant until its half way up the bottle and start/run the car. then as the fluid drops just keep it around half way up the bottle. this is called "burping" the system. hope this helps
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1990 HC series 2 Mazda Luce Royal Classic (factory 13b turbo rotary) <---TO SEE MY WORK HIT THE PIC -----WANA TAKE IT TO THE TRACK ---> http://www.renew.asn.au/ |
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only to glad to help..
sometimes it helps lifting the front of the car slightly in "burping" as well.
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1990 HC series 2 Mazda Luce Royal Classic (factory 13b turbo rotary) <---TO SEE MY WORK HIT THE PIC -----WANA TAKE IT TO THE TRACK ---> http://www.renew.asn.au/ |
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I did that with my car for 30 min and, then I had heat only. When I had the cap of bleeding the system. But the pump was turnign so fast that after I put the cap on I had no heat werid as heck. So the only way to have heat is block part of my rad. off so the car can get hot so I can get heat.
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what does that mean you work as?
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- Mazda HC 1989 929 - 3L DOHC 5 Speed, Coilovers, 18 inch Rays Engineering Gram Evo 4s, Torsen LSD < Getting 1JZ-GTE love soon - Datsun 1600, 110rwkw Hot L20B, 75 Wade cam, ported, polished, balanced, bigger valves, close ratio 5 speed, 4.11 locker. 13.8 sec 1/4 mile - Mazda HC 1990 929 V6 JFT Turbo conversion, Torsen LSD, Tein HR Coilovers, 17 inch Racing Harts, Front mount intercooler.
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