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Ive done plenty of front seals, they just slide in from the front and the crank pulley holds the show together. If you have already pulled your sump off, which isnt a bad idea anyway, so scrub it clean before an oil change, just remake the gasket with the red stuff in the tube, works a treat.
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1990 HC II Mazda 929 Hardtop - I hope it goes one day 2002 GU Patrol - twin lockers, front and rear bars, winch, draws, compressor, dual batteries, long range tanks + more |
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well, on the way with my 200K service
everything was going well until the transmission sump..... GOD DAMND @##*_!#$)*@#_$!_+#@(......... it had a paper based gasket, plus a hero before me needed gasket adhesive..... so now i have most of the gasket on transmission after 3 hours of scraping.... one side is clean 3 to go .... i need a quicker method... tried gasket remover on the bits that stayed on my sump.... now my sump is matt silver... because this is the only high temp paint i had as gasket remover removed the paint.... NOT THE GOD **** Gasket..... so guys any tips???? at this stage finished baking the Sump, need to wet send it as the high temp paint laying on rough. |
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maybe try a razor blade to scrape it off. It is an absolute prick of a job.
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- Mazda HC 1989 929 - 3L DOHC 5 Speed, Coilovers, 18 inch Rays Engineering Gram Evo 4s, Torsen LSD < Getting 1JZ-GTE love soon - Datsun 1600, 110rwkw Hot L20B, 75 Wade cam, ported, polished, balanced, bigger valves, close ratio 5 speed, 4.11 locker. 13.8 sec 1/4 mile - Mazda HC 1990 929 V6 JFT Turbo conversion, Torsen LSD, Tein HR Coilovers, 17 inch Racing Harts, Front mount intercooler.
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the fun continues
(maybe should be )ok, so everything is done, all seals are changed, tension pulleys are changed, accessory tentions pulley bearing changed... all cleaned. gearbox together again and cleaned up ![]() BUT. have an issue. engine is running, as smooth as it has always has been (has a rough patch from air leak i can't track down).... the issue is gearbox (**** thing) Story: was filling the gearbox and dumb sh!t forgot that by taking the pan off does not drain the torque converter... so box was overfilled until the over fill valve kicked in (still kicking myself)..... anyhow, drained a few liters..... before anyone goes on check the dipstick..... kinda hard when you just covered the ******* in oil (although have to use it) .... anyhow, got to the level i thought is ok, went for a drive.... CANT REV IT.... the gearbox felt like its stuck in 3rd.... hear the turbo go nuts (engine seem to work fine)..... so when i got back from around the block, looked at the dipstick.... seemed a lot of fluid.... drained a bit, looked at the stick, seems right. jumped in the car no R or D. logically no fluid, added 1.5 liters i had laying around got back to the first instance. now the MPVers say that reving issue could be related to the jumped tooth on the timing belt, yet no one says if idle is affected. my issue seems to be gearbox related.... anyway first time doing the gearbox so yeah...... live thousand years - learn thousand years any ideas? EDIT: should add, that once on idle it revs no issues. i'm leaving it overnight for oil to settle and try to check again tomorrow the fluid level, i think the fluid is low. |
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