my plans for performance

[lune-187]

ok, I know that I have posted several different topics as of late, but due to some fortunate yet unfortunate occurrences lately it would seem that my plans for increasing the power of the 929 may be within my reach!

well, several months back a family member of mine(not one of my favorites) was hit by a semi while riding his bike(pedal bike) and will soon be coming into a near 7 figure sum and he wants to help me achieve my goal to a point.

so here is my plan, trans rebuild, engine rebuild w/bore and stroke, port and polish, custom head gaskets, custom 3" exhaust, one piece drive shaft, raxles high performance c/v axles for the rear, and updated lsd.

as for power adders i have two choices:

custom intake manifold probably ITB's with custom air box running n2o

or

turbo, single for now with the ability to add a second later, possible by my exhaust man who will make the headers and the exhaust

all the motor work will be done by a very well known race shop in my town, for the low sum of $2500 USD.

the tuning will also be done by a local shop as well.

all together I'm looking at around $5k-$6k USD

using several programs i have been able to guesstimate an output with single turbo @ 295-345HP and 250-285Tq @ 5200RPM! (rpm limited to ensure engine survival with turbo)

with the ITB's the numbers are more like 245-275HP 225-240Tq @ 5200RPM.

i plan to manage all of it with apexi AFC-Neo II and a boost controller/turbo timer, etc. for the turbo setup.

what i need to know is what you guys think i should do?

N/A with spray or Turbo?

[NoD]

If you are going turbo then i would take a good look at the wall thickness before boring. You will need some meat between the cylinders if you are going turbo.

On the question concerning N/A or turbo

Personally I'm going turbo. But its really all up to you.
Turbo will give a shitload of power, but N/A will give smooth power

[nine2nine]

Turbo is the only real sensible option, and 300rwhp should be a walk in the park with the standard motor. No idea why you are talking about wasting money on a rebuild, they are a fairly low compression engine, so will take over 15psi of boost no worries. Spend the money on replacing all the hoses and just general maintenance and ENGINE MANAGEMENT.
A piggyback will not run an engine that was never originally turbo (well at least not acceptably).
Slap a gt35 on it, get a quality stand alone computer and your laughing. Put battery in boot, turbo where battery was.

[lune-187]

No idea why you are talking about wasting money on a rebuild, they are a fairly low compression engine, so will take over 15psi of boost no worries. Spend the money on replacing all the hoses and just general maintenance and ENGINE MANAGEMENT.

the reason fro the rebuild is that the motor has 245k miles and the last owner never did a timing belt change once (needs very very badly), never replaced the v/c gaskets(which it needs very badly), im going to replace the connecting rods because they are old and from what i have been told are the week point of these cars performance wise.

the fact is that it will cost me only another $400USD to have it rebuilt vs those three jobs. that and I have owned only cars with high miles and i can tell you i would like to be driving this car for a long time from now.


A piggyback will not run an engine that was never originally turbo (well at least not acceptably).

the afc neo is self explanatory AFC=air/fuel controller,i'm not using it for a complete piggyback system, just fuel.


Slap a gt35 on it, get a quality stand alone computer and your laughing. Put battery in boot, turbo where battery was.

that was what i was going to do but the turbo was going to be a t3/t4E that a friend was using before he went twin turbo and he is going to let me use it as a test turbo to see what i think. a gt35 is a little too much to start with. plus he's letting me use it for free so I'm not complaining, lol

he only went twin because he wanted to, he was quick before but now he's stomping everything out here now, including Z06's, mustang cobra's, cant count the number of civics and tegs, and 2 ZR1 'vettes by 3-4 cars on a 60-roll.

lets just say he is an over achiever, lol

[nine2nine]

I know what a safc neo is, im running one on my 929. The problem is the transition between positive and negative pressure in the inlet manifold as a car that was never turbo typically has no mapping for positive pressure so you are unable to account for this. This means the engine will be running too much timing for a turbo and will pop. This is also a catch, as changing the airflow meter signal to the computer makes the computer also alter timing, so you effectively gave no idea where its at.

Not bagging you, just offering suggestions. Fair enough if you want a new motor, and for that price a cant blame you. If you weren't getting the rebuild cheap, then i would set everything up on the engine as it.

[NoD]

Standalone will give mote control, but it will also cost more, being time or money.

For my build i'm going turbo and standalone.

[lune-187]

Originally Posted by nine2nine

Not bagging you, just offering suggestions. Fair enough if you want a new motor, and for that price a cant blame you. If you weren't getting the rebuild cheap, then i would set everything up on the engine as it.

i wasn't trying to come off as rude, lol. the thing is that I've been told by almost every shop that it is impossible to turbo this car due to the fact of how little room i have. i showed them this cardomain page:

austinmc's 1994 Mazda 929 - louisville, KY

after which they changed their minds, but still two main issues, to them and i, is if the trans can handle the power that i would be making, and how to manage fuel/air, timing (as you stated the airflow changes the timing on the motor) and controlling the trans for shift points.

in one of my other posts i stated that i was looking for a 5 speed automatic tranny from a 92-5 skyline GT32 which "should" share the same bell housing as our transmissions giving me the extra room to reach my goal for high performance, my only other option is to rebuild the stock trans and install dual trans coolers and upgrade, if possible, the lsd that i have to a better one and raxles high performance C/V axles.

if you guys can offer any help for my project then please offer it.

[nine2nine]

Transmission is the easy part, they use a common jatco and any auto shop should be able to rebuild them super strong. You then have three options of controlling it. Putting a manual valve body in and shifting manually, aftermarket controller, or wiring the new ecu in over the top of the original so that it controls all the auto functions but the new one runs the engine. They definately have a good auto though, so theres no need to change, and then u dont have to worry bout driveshafts, gearbox crossmembers, bellhousings and custom torque converters.

[nine2nine]

Have a look here for gearbox info

My luce

[lune-187]

ok, so i've been running 87 oct.(the manual calls for 89 oct. in my experience running lower oct gas causes knocks) in the 9 for about 3 months know and at the time there was nothing wrong but about 3 weeks ago my friend noticed a knock coming from the front right cam cover and now it is quite pronounced.

from what i can tell there is a bolt missing from the cover on the top left side if you are facing the car. what i need to know is if this is just the bolt/screw that is missing rattling around in the cover, or is it the cam seal failing causing the cam to knock on the valve cover/cam belt cover?

also if anyone can walk me through how to remove the cam belt covers/t.belt covers i would appreciate it.