2001 MPV alternator - Mazda Forum

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2005, 02:11 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7
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Hello,

I have a 2001 MPV with just over 70K miles.

The alternator went out yesterday.

I know that it is a difficult procedure, but I have heard that some people jadk the engine up and get at the alternator from above. Anyone else heard of this, or any other shortcuts that would keep me from needing to remove the right front halfshaft.

Thanks!

Daniel Gilfillen
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Old 06-08-2005, 10:50 PM
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Location: Florida
Posts: 2,199
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There is a short-cut the mechanics use at the Mazda Dealership to replace the alternator. They disconnect one or more of the motor mounts, lift the engine, and remove the alternator.

This is the long way, if you want to do it by the book:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the drive belt
3. Remove the front pipe
4. Remove the joint shaft
5. Remove in the order indicated in the table
6. Install in the reverse order.

Table:

1. Terminal B wire
2. Connector
3. Joint shaft braket
4. Generator

Drive Belt replacement:

1. Remove the splash screen (RH)
2. Set a handle (commercially available on the market) on the center of the tensioner pulley as shown
3. Using the handle, turn the center of the tensioner pulley clockwise to release tension to the drive belt.
4. Remove drive belt
5. Reinstall the drive belt or install a new drive belt.
6. Verify that the auto tension indicator mark is not exceeding the limit.

Exhaust system removal/installation:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove in the order indicated in the table
3. Install in the reverse order

Table:
1. After silencer
2. Main silencer
3. TWC
4. Front pipe
5. Exhaust manifold (RH)
6. 5. Exhaust manifold (LH)

Joint shaft removal/installation

Caution:
- Performing the following procedures without first removing the ABS wheel-speed sensor nay possibly cause an open circuit in the harness if it is pulled by mistake. Before performing the following procedures, remove the ABS wheel-sensor (axle side) and fix it to an appropriate side where the sensor will not be pulled by mistake while servicing the vehicle
- Removing the drive shaft with joint shaft bracket installed may cause the deformation of the joint shaft braket. Therefore remove/install the drive shaft and joint shaft as a component

1. Drain the transaxle oil
2. Remove in the order indicated in the table
3. Install in the reverse order of removal

Table:

1. Tie-rod end
2. Lower arm ball joint
3. Stabilizer control link
4. Brake caliper component
5. Disc plate
6. Joint shaft braket unit
7. Wheel hub, steering knuckle, drive shaft and joint shaft
8. Joint shaft
9. Clip

Labor times:

Exhaust manifold: 1.9 hrs
Front pipe: 0.9
Steering knuckle: 1.7
Brake caliper: 0.9
Stabilizer bar: 5.8 (includes R&I suspension crossmember)
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Old 06-12-2005, 03:47 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7
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mazda-fla:

I know this might sound like a stupid question, but do dealerships totally remove the engine from the compartment, or do they just lift it a few inches and rock it forward to get access?

I am trying to do the job at home, in my garage, but I do not want to start it if I feel it is too involved. I am not sure if I will need a cherry picker for the engine, or if I can jack it up a few inches from below.

If anyone has experience doing it without removing the front right axle, please let me know!

Thanks,

Daniel Gilfillen
dgilfillen@hotmail.com

Quote:
Originally posted by mazda-fla@Jun 8 2005, 11:50 PM
There is a short-cut the mechanics use at the Mazda Dealership to replace the alternator. They disconnect one or more of the motor mounts, lift the engine, and remove the alternator.

This is the long way, if you want to do it by the book:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the drive belt
3. Remove the front pipe
4. Remove the joint shaft
5. Remove in the order indicated in the table
6. Install in the reverse order.

Table:

1. Terminal B wire
2. Connector
3. Joint shaft braket
4. Generator

Drive Belt replacement:

1. Remove the splash screen (RH)
2. Set a handle (commercially available on the market) on the center of the tensioner pulley as shown
3. Using the handle, turn the center of the tensioner pulley clockwise to release tension to the drive belt.
4. Remove drive belt
5. Reinstall the drive belt or install a new drive belt.
6. Verify that the auto tension indicator mark is not exceeding the limit.

Exhaust system removal/installation:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove in the order indicated in the table
3. Install in the reverse order

Table:
1. After silencer
2. Main silencer
3. TWC
4. Front pipe
5. Exhaust manifold (RH)
6. 5. Exhaust manifold (LH)

Joint shaft removal/installation

Caution:
- Performing the following procedures without first removing the ABS wheel-speed sensor nay possibly cause an open circuit in the harness if it is pulled by mistake. Before performing the following procedures, remove the ABS wheel-sensor (axle side) and fix it to an appropriate side where the sensor will not be pulled by mistake while servicing the vehicle
- Removing the drive shaft with joint shaft bracket installed may cause the deformation of the joint shaft braket. Therefore remove/install the drive shaft and joint shaft as a component

1. Drain the transaxle oil
2. Remove in the order indicated in the table
3. Install in the reverse order of removal

Table:

1. Tie-rod end
2. Lower arm ball joint
3. Stabilizer control link
4. Brake caliper component
5. Disc plate
6. Joint shaft braket unit
7. Wheel hub, steering knuckle, drive shaft and joint shaft
8. Joint shaft
9. Clip

Labor times:

Exhaust manifold: 1.9 hrs
Front pipe: 0.9
Steering knuckle: 1.7
Brake caliper: 0.9
Stabilizer bar: 5.8 (includes R&I suspension crossmember)
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2005, 03:49 PM
Mazda Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7
Default

mazda-fla:

I know this might sound like a stupid question, but do dealerships totally remove the engine from the compartment, or do they just lift it a few inches and rock it forward to get access?

I am trying to do the job at home, in my garage, but I do not want to start it if I feel it is too involved. I am not sure if I will need a cherry picker for the engine, or if I can jack it up a few inches from below.

If anyone has experience doing it without removing the front right axle, please let me know!

Thanks,

Daniel Gilfillen
dgilfillen@hotmail.com

Quote:
Originally posted by mazda-fla@Jun 8 2005, 11:50 PM
There is a short-cut the mechanics use at the Mazda Dealership to replace the alternator. They disconnect one or more of the motor mounts, lift the engine, and remove the alternator.

This is the long way, if you want to do it by the book:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the drive belt
3. Remove the front pipe
4. Remove the joint shaft
5. Remove in the order indicated in the table
6. Install in the reverse order.

Table:

1. Terminal B wire
2. Connector
3. Joint shaft braket
4. Generator

Drive Belt replacement:

1. Remove the splash screen (RH)
2. Set a handle (commercially available on the market) on the center of the tensioner pulley as shown
3. Using the handle, turn the center of the tensioner pulley clockwise to release tension to the drive belt.
4. Remove drive belt
5. Reinstall the drive belt or install a new drive belt.
6. Verify that the auto tension indicator mark is not exceeding the limit.

Exhaust system removal/installation:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove in the order indicated in the table
3. Install in the reverse order

Table:
1. After silencer
2. Main silencer
3. TWC
4. Front pipe
5. Exhaust manifold (RH)
6. 5. Exhaust manifold (LH)

Joint shaft removal/installation

Caution:
- Performing the following procedures without first removing the ABS wheel-speed sensor nay possibly cause an open circuit in the harness if it is pulled by mistake. Before performing the following procedures, remove the ABS wheel-sensor (axle side) and fix it to an appropriate side where the sensor will not be pulled by mistake while servicing the vehicle
- Removing the drive shaft with joint shaft bracket installed may cause the deformation of the joint shaft braket. Therefore remove/install the drive shaft and joint shaft as a component

1. Drain the transaxle oil
2. Remove in the order indicated in the table
3. Install in the reverse order of removal

Table:

1. Tie-rod end
2. Lower arm ball joint
3. Stabilizer control link
4. Brake caliper component
5. Disc plate
6. Joint shaft braket unit
7. Wheel hub, steering knuckle, drive shaft and joint shaft
8. Joint shaft
9. Clip

Labor times:

Exhaust manifold: 1.9 hrs
Front pipe: 0.9
Steering knuckle: 1.7
Brake caliper: 0.9
Stabilizer bar: 5.8 (includes R&I suspension crossmember)
[snapback]278263[/snapback]
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2005, 08:52 AM
mazda-fla's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,199
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They don't totally remove the engine, they just lift it enough to gain access to the alternator. However, I don't know specifically which motor mounts are removed, or how much you have to actually lift the engine.

That is a bad design when you have to go through all that labor just to change an alternator.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2008, 01:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Hello,

I have a 2001 MPV with just over 70K miles.

The alternator went out yesterday.

I know that it is a difficult procedure, but I have heard that some people jadk the engine up and get at the alternator from above. Anyone else heard of this, or any other shortcuts that would keep me from needing to remove the right front halfshaft.

Thanks!

Daniel Gilfillen[/b]
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2008, 01:17 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2
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The easy way to do it is to replace the alternator in disassembled state. I did it on my Mazda MPV2001.
The only thing I had to remove was right front wheel.
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 11:31 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 6
Default

Quote:
The easy way to do it is to replace the alternator in disassembled state. I did it on my Mazda MPV2001.
The only thing I had to remove was right front wheel.[/b]
mazdafixer, Mine just went @ 98,000 miles. What do you mean by "disassembled state"? You can break it down by the motor and pull it out piece by piece? My wife wants a new van but i'd hate to give it away for $3500 or less. Thanks for any tips or help you or anyone else can give me.
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