1992 MX-3 No Spark getting to Distributer - Mazda Forums : MazdaWorld.org Mazda Owners Forum

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Old 01-11-2004, 06:38 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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Car: 1992 Mazda MX-3 4-cylinders, 16 valves, automatic transmission

Help.. Not a lot of dough to take to shop or swap out a lot of parts guessing..
Was coming home from work on Friday, driving in the fast lane, and my car died. No warings etc.. The check engine light then came on. The car will not start. The engine turns over but no attempt to ignite the gas.

Symptoms diagnosed:
1. Identified no spark is making it to the distributor from the coil.

Test so far:
Coil checked out per the manual.. Good voltage at primary conductors on coil. Good resistance readings on primary and secondary conductors at coil and the cable running between the coil and the distributor.

Battery voltage ok.. Car wouldn't jump start..

I don't have any of the specialy Ignitor checkers or engine code checkers..

Anyone else have this problem and was it resolved by replacing the Ignitor or ECU, etc..

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-24-2004, 07:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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in case any one was interested.. after a bit of trouble isolation, i finally found that my timing belt had failed..

Final Isolation Procedure:
1. Took off distributor cap and checked to see if the rotor was moving
** rotor was not moving

2. took off the oil cap to see if the camshaft was rotating, valve springs actuating
** they were not

3. peeked into the upper timing belt cover and had my daughter crank the car..
** the belt was not turning

4. took off the upper timing belt cover completely and saw the broken belt..

5. now having fun on my saturday replacing the timing belt.

6. manual said replace the belt every 60k miles whether it needs it or not.
** my car was at 76k miles.
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Old 02-24-2005, 05:49 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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hi, you have to check your distributor. You are supposed to get three or four wire on your connector. With the key at on position:

THe first Wire ( nearest the firewall ) ``black and green`` = ground (0V)
The second = battery voltage
The third = 5V
The fourth ( if there is one) = 5V

With the engine cranking

The third = approx. 2v
The fourth = approx. 1V

If Is there always 5V on the wires 3 and 4 even the engine is cranking; your distributor is defect.

Any questions? mart_017@hotmail.com
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