[Tech] How Do I Fix My Flooded RX-7 - Mazda Forums : MazdaWorld.org Mazda Owners Forum

MazdaWorld.org is the premier Mazda Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2004, 02:42 PM
Mazda Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3
Thumbs up



I wanted to know if anyone could help me out. I own a 1989 Mazda RX-7 (auto) and it seems to flood from time to time. I wanted to know what is the best way to fix it after it has been flooded, instead of always towing it to the mechanics?

Any Suggestions?

Aaron

Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2004, 06:17 PM
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,881
Send a message via AIM to ShadowSE Send a message via MSN to ShadowSE Send a message via Yahoo to ShadowSE
Default

flooded like, fell into a lake flooded?

or flooded like too much gas in the engine flooded?

if it is flooded like lake; take everything out of it and dry it out very very good... i used febreeze (sp?) after some carpet i had shipped to me got wet ad Fed-Ex and it worked very well...

if it is flooded like too much gas, the easiest thing to do for the rx-7s is to take out the plugs (yea, its a pita) and dry them off very well and clean them real good (wire brush, etc) then you can try sticking them back in and firing it up.. usualy works on my friend's 93TT.
__________________
1993 Acura NSX
1988 Mazda RX-7 10th Anniversary Turbo II
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2004, 06:35 PM
Mazda Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3
Default

Yes flooded like too much gas..........if it was in a lake.....i'd leave it there!


Aaron

P.S. so just take out the plugs........that's it!


Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2004, 11:51 PM
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,881
Send a message via AIM to ShadowSE Send a message via MSN to ShadowSE Send a message via Yahoo to ShadowSE
Default

take them out and dry them out / clean them off... try and give the gas some time to evaporate from the rotor housing while you're doing it too, but be sure nothing gets in there ...
__________________
1993 Acura NSX
1988 Mazda RX-7 10th Anniversary Turbo II
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 01:56 PM
Mazda Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3
Default

Thank you!

aaron
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2004, 02:31 PM
zmarko's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 310
Send a message via AIM to zmarko
Default

You'll also need to use ATF fluid to get rid of all the gas, as removing the plugs and letting it dry won't do it (usually). Goto your local auto parts store and pick up a new set of spark plugs.

What I did when my '87 got flooded was to take out the spark plugs and cranked the car over a few times (make sure you put the plug wires well out of the way so they don't spark onto any wires close by). WHen you crank it, you'll be able to hear a pfffft'ing sound over and over again. Then, look at the top of your Throttle Body. Where it says "13B Fuel Injection", there will be 3 hoses (at least on my '87, not sure about the '89's). Pull off the biggest hose and pour in about a teaspoon of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). Crank it a few times just to move the ATF around in the chambers (yes it will be spit out the plug holes as you haven't replaced the plugs yet). After cranking a few times (not for very long, just a second or two each time), then replace the spark plugs with the OLD plugs that you have cleaned off to the best of your ability. Crank it over until it catches and fires up (there should be quite a bit of smoke). LET IT RUN FOR 15 mins to make sure all the ATF is burned off. You can drive around if you wish. Shortly thereafter, replace the spark plugs and crank it up. Everything should be good to go. Good luck.
__________________
-Mark

'01 Mazda Tribute 4WD
'95 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2004, 04:25 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 36,129
Default

rotary engines have issues with flooding, just the way they work, people have had the same problem in rx-8's if they don't know what there doing
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2004, 10:35 AM
zmarko's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 310
Send a message via AIM to zmarko
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by ///BHRpowered@Jun 26 2004, 04:25 PM
rotary engines have issues with flooding, just the way they work, people have had the same problem in rx-8's if they don't know what there doing
True. Most of the time it comes from stop and start driving (driving for short distances then shutting it off, and doing this repeatedly).

There are ways around this. You can hook up a "kill switch" to the fuel pump, which will shut the pump off and the car will not pump anymore fuel to flood the engine. I've never done this, but many people find this the easiest way to prevent flooding.
__________________
-Mark

'01 Mazda Tribute 4WD
'95 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2004, 05:52 PM
the_saint
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default


RX-7 Unflooding Procedure
86-91 Turbo and Non-Turbo
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



We have included some background information on this condition to help avoid the situation in the future. The actual unflooding procedure has been divided into two segments. One is an easy "three-step" process which can be done by anyone. It is effective in 90% of all flooded conditions. This procedure should always be tried before attempting the complex process. Since the complex process involves pulling the spark plugs, only people with adequate tools and mechanical aptitude should attempt it.

Common Symptoms

Vehicle was running fine the last time I parked it, but now it won't start
I can hear the engine rotating, but it sounds strange. Also, I smell gasoline.
I moved my car from the garage to the street, turned it off and now it won't start.
I left my car with a friend and they moved it. Now it won't start.
My car has been sitting for a long time and won't start.

Background

The RX-7 (especially 1986 and newer) is well known for flooding problems. One of the most common is caused by a "short start" condition. The "short start" is when someone starts the vehicle and turns it off before it is allowed to reach full operating temperature. The typical situation is moving the vehicle from one parking spot to another(ex: from garage to driveway). Cooler weather, especially temperatures below 70 degrees, aggravate the situation. What has happened, is the engine is still in the cold-start warmup cycle. Due to a fluke in the engine management's fuel injection computer, if the engine is shut off during this cycle, it is highly likely the engine will flood itself out the next time the engine is cranked. It does not matter whether you wait one hour or one week, the computer will wait for you the next time it's started. Once again, this is not something that will present itself as a problem every time you short-start the car. Of certainty, the problem will not occur if the short-start situation is always avoided and the vehicle is in proper mechanical condition. If consistent starting problems are experienced outside of the short-start situation, service is probably needed to the vehicle.

Rules of thumb

You will have to actively unflood the vehicle. RX-7's WILL NOT unflood themselves, even if allowed to sit for long periods of time.
DO NOT pump the gas pedal at any time while cranking the engine.
If the vehicle doesn't start within 5 seconds of cranking it's probably not going to start without unflooding.
If car is heavily flooded, spark plug replacement and oil changing may be required.
There is no cure for the short start problem other than the discipline to avoid the situation
ALWAYS ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO REACH FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURE BEFORE TURNING ENGINE OFF






Easy 3-Step method(1986-91)

PREPARATION

Battery needs to still have a reasonable charge. If engine is cranking slowly, please charge battery first or connect jumper cables.

STEP ONE

Locate main fuse box next to battery under the hood.

Pull innermost fuse from fuse box and leave out. Lid will have fuse labeled as "EGI Comp" for 1986-88 models and just "EGI" for 89-91 models. Note: some models have empty spaces for options on vehicle. There will be no fuses in these spots.

STEP TWO

Once fuse is pulled and left out, get back inside vehicle. Hold accelerator pedal to the floor and crank for 15~20 seconds. Vehicle will not start during this procedure. Remember, it is key to this procedure that you hold the accelerator down and crank the engine at the same time.

STEP THREE

Turn ignition off and go back to the main fuse box. Place innermost fuse back in place and get back in vehicle. Try to start vehicle like normal WITHOUT touching the accelerator at all. If vehicle doe not start within FIVE SECONDS, it’s not going to start without doing the "three-step" method again. Sometimes this procedure has to be done five or six times to get vehicle started. If vehicle still won’t start, make sure battery is charged adequately or proceed to complex process, if your mechanical abilities allow.

Note: Vehicle will smoke heavily for awhile after startup. The more flooded the engine, the longer it will smoke.






Complex Unflooding Procedure(86-91)
Note: This procedure is only to be done by persons with adequate tools and experience. Also, it is intended to be done after attempts to unflood with the Easy 3-step Method have failed.

TOOLS

Standard 13/16 spark plug socket and ratchet
One quart automatic transmission fluid(ATF)-any type
Oil squirter, fluid bulb(like a baster), or funnel with hose
NGK spark plug set(if needed)
PREPARATION

Battery needs to still have a reasonable charge. If engine is cranking slowly, please charge battery first or connect jumper cables.

STEP ONE

Locate main fuse box next to battery under the hood.

Pull innermost fuse from fuse box and leave out. Lid will have fuse labeled as "EGI Comp" for 1986-88 models and just "EGI" for 89-91 models. Note: some models have empty spaces for options on vehicle. There will be no fuses in these spots.

STEP TWO

Engine has (4)spark plugs arranged in a square pattern on the drivers side of engine. Please label each plug wire and remove all four plugs. Note: It is absolutely imperative that the wires be able to go back onto the correct spark plug hole when the procedure is completed. Also, make sure plug wires are out of the way of the accessory belts to avoid tangling when engine cranked in step three.

STEP THREE

Make sure all spark plugs are out of engine, EGI fuse pulled, and plug wires out of way of accessories and belts. Get back in vehicle, hold accelerator on floor and crank for 15~20 seconds. It is very important that the accelerator be held to floor during this process. Note: You will see lots of gasoline vapor misting in engine compartment. This is normal and will diminish during cranking process. Engine obviously will not start at this time.

STEP FOUR

Place approximately one ounce of automatic transmission fluid(ATF) into each of the bottom two spark plug holes. This will be difficult, but ABSOLUTELY necessary. The fluid will relubricate the chambers of the engine and allow it to build compression. Use any type ATF and any reasonable means to get fluid into engine.

Examine original spark plugs. Clean and dry carefully, if still in acceptable condition. Use a brand new set of NGK plugs, if necessary.

Install plugs and reattach spark plug wires. Note: As mentioned before, it is absolutely imperative that the right wire go to the right hole. Wires can be traced one-by-one from their coil connection. Each coil connection has labeled L1, L2, T1 or T2. Remember T stands for top, L for lower, 1 for front and 2 for rear. Also remember, there are different plugs for the top and bottom plugs. The ones with the blue banding at the insulator tip are the top two.

STEP FIVE

Place innermost fuse back in place at the main fuse box. Get back in vehicle and try to start vehicle like normal WITHOUT touching the accelerator at all. Engine should start almost immediately. On rare occasions, this procedure has to be repeated.

Note: Vehicle will smoke EXTREMELY heavily for awhile after startup. The more flooded the engine, the longer it will smoke.

Once engine has warmed up completely and battery has had some time to charge, turn engine off and restart. Engine should start normally. It is highly recommended to change the oil as soon as possible. Oil becomes heavily gasoline contaminated from the flooding.

Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2006, 08:45 PM
Mazda Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 13
Default

Quote:
RX-7 Unflooding Procedure
86-91 Turbo and Non-Turbo
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
We have included some background information on this condition to help avoid the situation in the future. The actual unflooding procedure has been divided into two segments. One is an easy "three-step" process which can be done by anyone. It is effective in 90% of all flooded conditions. This procedure should always be tried before attempting the complex process. Since the complex process involves pulling the spark plugs, only people with adequate tools and mechanical aptitude should attempt it.

Common Symptoms

Vehicle was running fine the last time I parked it, but now it won't start
I can hear the engine rotating, but it sounds strange. Also, I smell gasoline.
I moved my car from the garage to the street, turned it off and now it won't start.
I left my car with a friend and they moved it. Now it won't start.
My car has been sitting for a long time and won't start.

Background

The RX-7 (especially 1986 and newer) is well known for flooding problems. One of the most common is caused by a "short start" condition. The "short start" is when someone starts the vehicle and turns it off before it is allowed to reach full operating temperature. The typical situation is moving the vehicle from one parking spot to another(ex: from garage to driveway). Cooler weather, especially temperatures below 70 degrees, aggravate the situation. What has happened, is the engine is still in the cold-start warmup cycle. Due to a fluke in the engine management's fuel injection computer, if the engine is shut off during this cycle, it is highly likely the engine will flood itself out the next time the engine is cranked. It does not matter whether you wait one hour or one week, the computer will wait for you the next time it's started. Once again, this is not something that will present itself as a problem every time you short-start the car. Of certainty, the problem will not occur if the short-start situation is always avoided and the vehicle is in proper mechanical condition. If consistent starting problems are experienced outside of the short-start situation, service is probably needed to the vehicle.

Rules of thumb

You will have to actively unflood the vehicle. RX-7's WILL NOT unflood themselves, even if allowed to sit for long periods of time.
DO NOT pump the gas pedal at any time while cranking the engine.
If the vehicle doesn't start within 5 seconds of cranking it's probably not going to start without unflooding.
If car is heavily flooded, spark plug replacement and oil changing may be required.
There is no cure for the short start problem other than the discipline to avoid the situation
ALWAYS ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO REACH FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURE BEFORE TURNING ENGINE OFF
Easy 3-Step method(1986-91)

PREPARATION

Battery needs to still have a reasonable charge. If engine is cranking slowly, please charge battery first or connect jumper cables.

STEP ONE

Locate main fuse box next to battery under the hood.

Pull innermost fuse from fuse box and leave out. Lid will have fuse labeled as "EGI Comp" for 1986-88 models and just "EGI" for 89-91 models. Note: some models have empty spaces for options on vehicle. There will be no fuses in these spots.

STEP TWO

Once fuse is pulled and left out, get back inside vehicle. Hold accelerator pedal to the floor and crank for 15~20 seconds. Vehicle will not start during this procedure. Remember, it is key to this procedure that you hold the accelerator down and crank the engine at the same time.

STEP THREE

Turn ignition off and go back to the main fuse box. Place innermost fuse back in place and get back in vehicle. Try to start vehicle like normal WITHOUT touching the accelerator at all. If vehicle doe not start within FIVE SECONDS, it’s not going to start without doing the "three-step" method again. Sometimes this procedure has to be done five or six times to get vehicle started. If vehicle still won’t start, make sure battery is charged adequately or proceed to complex process, if your mechanical abilities allow.

Note: Vehicle will smoke heavily for awhile after startup. The more flooded the engine, the longer it will smoke.
Complex Unflooding Procedure(86-91)
Note: This procedure is only to be done by persons with adequate tools and experience. Also, it is intended to be done after attempts to unflood with the Easy 3-step Method have failed.

TOOLS

Standard 13/16 spark plug socket and ratchet
One quart automatic transmission fluid(ATF)-any type
Oil squirter, fluid bulb(like a baster), or funnel with hose
NGK spark plug set(if needed)
PREPARATION

Battery needs to still have a reasonable charge. If engine is cranking slowly, please charge battery first or connect jumper cables.

STEP ONE

Locate main fuse box next to battery under the hood.

Pull innermost fuse from fuse box and leave out. Lid will have fuse labeled as "EGI Comp" for 1986-88 models and just "EGI" for 89-91 models. Note: some models have empty spaces for options on vehicle. There will be no fuses in these spots.

STEP TWO

Engine has (4)spark plugs arranged in a square pattern on the drivers side of engine. Please label each plug wire and remove all four plugs. Note: It is absolutely imperative that the wires be able to go back onto the correct spark plug hole when the procedure is completed. Also, make sure plug wires are out of the way of the accessory belts to avoid tangling when engine cranked in step three.

STEP THREE

Make sure all spark plugs are out of engine, EGI fuse pulled, and plug wires out of way of accessories and belts. Get back in vehicle, hold accelerator on floor and crank for 15~20 seconds. It is very important that the accelerator be held to floor during this process. Note: You will see lots of gasoline vapor misting in engine compartment. This is normal and will diminish during cranking process. Engine obviously will not start at this time.

STEP FOUR

Place approximately one ounce of automatic transmission fluid(ATF) into each of the bottom two spark plug holes. This will be difficult, but ABSOLUTELY necessary. The fluid will relubricate the chambers of the engine and allow it to build compression. Use any type ATF and any reasonable means to get fluid into engine.

Examine original spark plugs. Clean and dry carefully, if still in acceptable condition. Use a brand new set of NGK plugs, if necessary.

Install plugs and reattach spark plug wires. Note: As mentioned before, it is absolutely imperative that the right wire go to the right hole. Wires can be traced one-by-one from their coil connection. Each coil connection has labeled L1, L2, T1 or T2. Remember T stands for top, L for lower, 1 for front and 2 for rear. Also remember, there are different plugs for the top and bottom plugs. The ones with the blue banding at the insulator tip are the top two.

STEP FIVE

Place innermost fuse back in place at the main fuse box. Get back in vehicle and try to start vehicle like normal WITHOUT touching the accelerator at all. Engine should start almost immediately. On rare occasions, this procedure has to be repeated.

Note: Vehicle will smoke EXTREMELY heavily for awhile after startup. The more flooded the engine, the longer it will smoke.

Once engine has warmed up completely and battery has had some time to charge, turn engine off and restart. Engine should start normally. It is highly recommended to change the oil as soon as possible. Oil becomes heavily gasoline contaminated from the flooding.
[/b]



here's my secret...i pull the injector fuse out...rotate the engine a few times (more depending on how bad it's flooded) to give the plugs time to burn off the fuel clogging them..replace the fuse and turn the engine..with foot OFF the pedal.. until it begins to show signs of starting (this may a few times). pull injector fuse again..repeat process..replace fuse. it should be very close to starting at this point, when it does, give a little gas to help blow out the smoke. and for GOODNESS SAKE don't turn the engine off utill it has warmed up to operating temperture...or you'll find yourself doing the whole thing over again.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:44 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.