Oil Pan Change - Mazda Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-19-2006, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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OK, so long story short, my mom took her 2002 Mazda Tribute V6 to the dealer for a normal oil change and they tell her that they stripped the threads on the oil drain plug. To fix it temporarily they put a "larger size" drain plug in it's place, but they said that because Mazda puts "cheap aluminum oil pans" on there, that she'll have to pay $250+ for a new oil pan.

Of course I told her to go b**** them out and demand they replace the oil pan they wrecked for free. But she's not like that, so I said if she orders the oil pan I'll do the work.

So I'm wondering how difficult it is to change out an oil pan on a 2002 Tribute V6. Seems pretty straight forward to me, but I thought I'd make sure there aren't any gotchas.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 11:20 PM
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I think that should be fairly simple, just make sure you get the proper bolt order and torque. I'm not sure if you need to drop the front of the exhaust like on most cars(haven't looked specifically), but that should be fairly easy as well. Bolt order, torque and a proper gasket obviously the most important!
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-15-2006, 03:14 PM
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Wow, I received the same story on my 2001 Tribute! I can't believe the pan is so thin that the threads cannot be repaired.
My quote to replace the pan was $600...still have not had it replaced yet.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-15-2007, 02:32 AM
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Question

Just finished....

It is harder than it looked. The oil pan bolts are not the issue.
in order to remove the oil pan... you must remove the nuts that hold the exhaust crossover pipes that are in the way. You WILL NOT be able to remove the oil pan because the pickup tube will not let you slide it towards the trasmission. The nuts holding the rear manifold is easy to remove. The nuts holding the manifold near the oil filter is the hardest. LOOK at it, you will notice that it is almost like welded onto the bolt a flange. I ended up using a cutoff wheel and a vise grip to remove the bottom nut. In the manual, it is suggested to take off the whole crossover pipe and flex tube. I did not try to remove the flextube part. only what I mentioned. I was able to twist and move the crossover pipe enough for me to remove the oil pan gasket.
You will need to clean the surfaces w/ cottonballs dipped in acetone. remove all the oil and old gasket materials that are on the surface of oil pan and where it needs to be mounted. a slight RTV high temp paste will need to be put where there is a seam. it is on both sides. the side where it faces the passenger front wheel. Oil pan bolt torque is 18lbs. Start w/ #1. #1 bolt is the bolt closest to the oxygen sensor. Last bolt=the bolt facing the belts, towards rear of vehicle. (there are only two bolts facing the belts.

Good luck. I just finished and it was like 25degrees outside!!!!!
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 12:01 PM
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Thank you for the*informative*posts.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-07-2014, 09:31 AM
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Thank you for the*informative*posts.
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