Mazda World Forum banner

Sticking lifter or valve on 1991 B2600i 4x4

29K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  keliots 
#1 ·
My 1991 B2600i 4x4 seems to have a sticking valve or lifter and it's driving me BONKERS! The truck has 120,000 miles on it and runs perfect except for this one issue. When the engine is cold, it emits a loud ticking noise which increases in speed with an increase in RPM. It usually lasts for about 15 minutes and then goes away.

So far the only things I've tried are changing the oil and using Sea Foam. I thought the Sea Foam had worked after several days of no ticking, but the ticking is back. Any other possible remedies? Thanks in adavance for any ideas. If I find a solution, I'll be sure to post it.
 
#2 ·
I dont have much of an idea, but try some more sea foam, or (shudder) run some higher octain gas in it (NO ETHONOL)... that craps hard on older motors...
to save some moola, run it till its neraly empty, then put in a gallon or two of the expensive stuff (i feel for you, i honestly do)...
noise goes away, u either get to live with the noise, or kick it another nickle at the pump... my uncles car did that (non mazda), and its not really hurting anything except the lifters...

u sure its a lifter noise?

`Nate
 
#4 ·
A noise that is similar to valve ticking can be heard if the exhaust manifold is cracked. You might want to check. To test to see if its truely a valve, connect a compression guage. To help fix a sticking problem, try changeing the oil filter, putting in the correct weight oil, and add a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. That way, you get supperior lubrication, and the rockers should be moving freely.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to check the exhaust manifold. Forgive my ignorance, but what am I looking for with the compression check? Could it point me to a valve issue? What weight oil should I be using? As it is, I'm running 10W-30. I need to change it though since I just used the Sea Foam. I'll definately add the oil stablilizer as when I do.
 
#6 ·
Here's the latest: Checked the exhaust manifold and everything looked good. Haven't gotten around to a compression check yet. Hopefully next week. I changed the oil and added Lucas oil stablizer (and confirmed in the process not to take my truck back to one of those quickie lube places as they had only tightened down one of the skid-plate bolts). Oil level has remained full since changing it. I became a bit optimistic when almost a week went by without the ticking and then today...ticktickticktick...Argh! It's loud enough to be embarrassing.

I checked an old, archived b2600 forum and found several others having the same problem. The solutions ranged from parking the truck on an incline (worked for one guy, but I don't have an incline to park on) to switching to 5w-30 oil to changing the bad lifter. I'll probably try the second option next time I change the oil as long as that weight is okay for the truck. The last option sounds like a good solution except I don't know how to identify the noisy lifter. And then would I have to replace all of them or worse, the cam?

Other than the initial 15 minutes or so of ticking, I'm loving this truck. Quite a bit more power than my '87 b2600 had. As I have time, I'll keep trying to solve the problem and I'll post something as soon as I've found a solution.
 
#7 ·
It's been a month now since this problem last occurred. I haven't changed anything since my last post, so I'm guessing it has something to do with the hot weather we're having here in SoCal (100-110 during the day, 65-80 during the night). This same thing happened with my '87 b2600 when I had it. There'd be the ticking in the morning when the engine was cold except during the warmer months. So, chances are I won't be dealing with this problem until winter or fall. Regardless, my next oil change will be 5w-30. I'll be sure to update this when the weather has cooled down again.
 
#8 ·
What octane are you running? Is it at least 87? What is your ignition timing set to? I have had best success in my vehicle useing 10w40 in the hotter weather. Yes, switch to a different oil in the winter. Check to see what you owners manual suggests for your weather. To do a compression check, remove all spark plugs, and ground the primary ignition. Connect the compression guage to each hole and measure the reading. If you get a cylinder that is more than 10% lower, that is your trouble cylinder. To check to see which problem the cylinder is haveing, add a small amount of oil to the cylinder (just a squirt), and repaet the test. If it now reads higher and closer to normal, you have worn rings. If it doesn't improve, you have either a blown head gasket, or a valve problem. Since you say it sounds like valves ticking you will probably find this to be the case. How much Lucas Stabilizer did you use? I'm thinking you are either haveing a pinging problem, the timing is of, and lastly, I'd suspect a valve, but the compression check will either prove, or rule ou the valve.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for all the info. I'm running 87 octane (nothing lower available in my area), mostly Chevron. I don't know what my timing is set to. Is there an easy way to check that? I'll look again, but I'm pretty sure the manual says to run 10w-30 or 10w-40 in this temperature. I'll wait to switch to 5w-30. As far as the Lucas Stabilizer, I used the recommended amount on the bottle which, I believe, was just about the whole bottle.

I still have to get out there and do a compression test. It's been so dang hot though that the garage is pretty much an oven until late at night. It's also hard to bring myself to do anything when the truck is running and sounding as good as it is right now. But, I'm guessing, that once colder weather hits the ticking will be back.
 
#10 ·
THe problem you may have if you run 5-30 is that it will be too thin at startup. The first number is what the oil acts like when it is cold. In this case, it acts like a 5 weight oil, which is very lite, but it also drains to easily. When the engine is cold, it will not lubricate properly, and you will get excessive engine wear at startup. The Lucas helps remedy this, but just keep this in mind. A compression test will tell you everything.
 
#11 ·
I am having a similar issue with mine. It ticks and increases with rpms but mine seems to be random. It comes and goes. I have not had my truck on the road for several weeks due to destroyed overdrive unit (damn auto). Hopefully I will get back this week and figure out my random tick.
 
#12 ·
Originally posted by Johnny Random@Aug 10 2005, 08:54 AM
I am having a similar issue with mine.  It ticks and increases with rpms but mine seems to be random.  It comes and goes.  I have not had my truck on the road for several weeks due to destroyed overdrive unit (damn auto).  Hopefully I will get back this week and figure out my random tick.
[snapback]296088[/snapback]​
My 93 B2200 does the same thing after it sits for a few days without being driven. You might try doing a search in all forums for "engine ticking". I found several that talk about the hydraulic lash adjusters.
 
#13 ·
The hydraulic adjusters are only found on mitsu engines, the Mazda engines need no adjustment. Check the timing, the ticking may be knock or ping. You need an INDUCTIVE timing light. Clip it around the #1 spark plug wire. ou will need o run the engine at base, so ground out the diagnostic wire. It is the green one at the upper rear corner of the engine compartment. It is the same one you'd use to check for engine codes. Once grounded, make sure the base idle is correct. If it is, then proceed. Make sure the base timing at idle is 5 degrees BTC. If it is otherwise, then it is incorrect, and if it is more than this, then that easily explains where a knock could come from.
 
#14 ·
Probly a sticky lifter. Mine does it after sitting for a long time or over time driveing.
Try another can of sea foam but read the can and do the manifold vacume procedure. Where you have the truck running and warm, pull the vacume hose going from the pcv valve and intake, and pour I think it says 1/3 a can in while the truck is idleing "you may need a helper to keep the truck running', as soon as you get done pouring shut the truck off, let it sit for about 5 min, then crank it back up and hold the idle till it straitens out.

This worked well on mine and only have to do it about once a year, just go by the direction on the can for the correct instructions. Then pour the rest in your oil.
I can't remember at the moment if you leave it in the oil or not.

After you do the pcv thing just be sure to put a can in your fuel every so often to keep it clean.
 
#15 ·
Ok, my truck began ticking and knocking when under acceleration, but only when cold. Turs out I had a vacuum leak, and the MAF sensor was being thrown off as a result. Clean your MAF sensor, and check for vacuum leak. Actually check for any leak that coul get past the MAF. Check the PCV valve to make sure it seats proberly and is functioning, and make sure the breather hose is not cracked or split. Aslo make sure the resonator is not cracked or split. Poor fuel economy can also come from even the slightest leak.
 
#16 ·
Greetings,
I may be suffering from the same thing in my recently-acquired '93 B2200. Last weekend, I replaced the head gasket on it and it ran perfectly for 200+ miles. Then, at about 75 mph, I noticed a knocking start ... and then get louder ... and Louder ... and LOUDER!!! It got so lound I started to suspect a crank bearing was starting to go, or something really severe like that. I checked the engine for oil (correct level) and checked for loose parts (crank pulley, etc) and came up with nothing. So, I drove it home and popped off the rocker cover, because that's where the noise seemed to be coming from (this determined using a mechanic's stethoscope). Everything looks fine there. Well, gues what, now that noise is gone and the ol' Mazda four-banger is ticking away happily. Engine has lots of power. I'm really stumped as to what this might be. Judging from the other posts I've just read I wonder if I've got a sticky valve. Also, as noted in another's post, this ticking is sometime noticeable for a few moments on start-up in the morning. My engine doesn't have hydraulic lifters, so that's ruled out. This is too bad, because it kinda sounds like a really bad hydraulic lifter.

Any of you Mazda folks got any more suggestions??


Thanks in advance.

Jeff Booth
 
#17 ·
Greetings,
I may be suffering from the same thing in my recently-acquired '93 B2200. Last weekend, I replaced the head gasket on it and it ran perfectly for 200+ miles. Then, at about 75 mph, I noticed a knocking start ... and then get louder ... and Louder ... and LOUDER!!! It got so lound I started to suspect a crank bearing was starting to go, or something really severe like that. I checked the engine for oil (correct level) and checked for loose parts (crank pulley, etc) and came up with nothing. So, I drove it home and popped off the rocker cover, because that's where the noise seemed to be coming from (this determined using a mechanic's stethoscope). Everything looks fine there. Well, gues what, now that noise is gone and the ol' Mazda four-banger is ticking away happily. Engine has lots of power. I'm really stumped as to what this might be. Judging from the other posts I've just read I wonder if I've got a sticky valve. Also, as noted in another's post, this ticking is sometime noticeable for a few moments on start-up in the morning. My engine doesn't have hydraulic lifters, so that's ruled out. This is too bad, because it kinda sounds like a really bad hydraulic lifter.

Any of you Mazda folks got any more suggestions??
Thanks in advance.

Jeff Booth
[/b]
My fix worked on mine, the varnish I assume was cleaned off and never have had a tick since. If I could just stop the Smoke on the first start up when cold. Soon enuff..............
If you try the sea foam, follow the directions exactly.

I wouldn't use lucus. Just use a thicker oil if you think that is the case. I just don't like adding things to oil, I feel if the companies needed that in there they would add it.
Be sure to use a good name oil and stick with it. I use castrol in everything but my weedeater and lawnmower. I used 5w30 HighMileage last oil change, but next one I may switch back to 10w30 highmileage. My truck has 166k miles but before I used this oil I used regular mobil, don't know what the previous owner used.
I prefer any oil that will keep the engine internals clean and very little sludge with a correct oil change interval, and cast is one of them.

Here is some good reading on lucas. Not gonna try to change anyones ideas but this site has alot of useful info on oils, additives, and filters......
Bob Is the Oil Guy, using lucas in a test.
 
#18 ·
Good point, however, there are 2 control groups in this test, which totally invalidates the test. To perform a scientifically valid test, both test subject would have to be the same. The oil brands are the problem, they are different. Lets see if the same thing happens when both sides are useing the same oil. I noticed that the Lucas side was also foaming without the Lucas added.
 
#19 ·
Good point, however, there are 2 control groups in this test, which totally invalidates the test. To perform a scientifically valid test, both test subject would have to be the same. The oil brands are the problem, they are different. Lets see if the same thing happens when both sides are useing the same oil. I noticed that the Lucas side was also foaming without the Lucas added.
[/b]
Yep, they are also stanfing by the none foaming oil. It's called Schaffers or something like that.
It's suppose to be a synthetic with climbing properties and anti-foaming additive. they claim it to be the best hands down. I don't go by that, was just wanting to show the difference after the lucas was added to the oil. It says when you mess up the mixture that the oil manufatures came up with and add stuff to it what can happen.
I would like to have seen the test with other oils compared to "that oil" and add lucas to them all.
Also, after I posted the link I started reading the forums and it seems they all almost stand by Havoline oil when it comes to a dino oil.

I've never been a fan off adding anything to my oil, I have put seafoam in it and have ran marvles mystry oil in the oil to try and keep internals cleaned.


Good point, however, there are 2 control groups in this test, which totally invalidates the test. To perform a scientifically valid test, both test subject would have to be the same. The oil brands are the problem, they are different. Lets see if the same thing happens when both sides are useing the same oil. I noticed that the Lucas side was also foaming without the Lucas added.
[/b]
I think if the same oils was used in both sides and lucas added to one it would still foam up, just wander if it would be different? I wish I could build one of those tests.
 
#20 ·
Agreed, it probably does matter a lot what oils you add lucas too. Also, some oils may have better anti-foaming ability that others, and allow them to both climb and still have foaming resistance. We do not know for sure how much lucas was added in the tests that were shown, but it could have been more than recommended. Also, while it may mimic what would happen when the oil was cold, I would imagine that heat would reduce the foaming action, so actual conditions should be less severe. I don't mean to say that Lucas is 100% safe, but by the same token, the tests shown are not very scientifically founded. To prove his point, he needs the oil on both sides to be the same type, weight and brand. And then he would prove only one thing, that the lucas either does or does not work with that paticular oil. To make the test completely valid he would have to test a larger variety of brands and weights.
 
#21 ·
Well, that sticky-valve-like noise has decided to stay away. It only showed up that once, for about 30-45 minutes. I haven't heard it for more than a week. Engine's running fine. I guess this noise is one of the idiosynchracies of these Mazdas.......
Take care
 
#22 ·
Well, that sticky-valve-like noise has decided to stay away. It only showed up that once, for about 30-45 minutes. I haven't heard it for more than a week. Engine's running fine. I guess this noise is one of the idiosynchracies of these Mazdas.......
Take care
 
#23 ·
Well in any case, this guy probably wants to get his ride to stop ticking, so if you are afraid of trying Lucas, then go get some Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline, or Royal Purple full synthetic oil and run it through there, after flushing you old oil out with Seafoam of coarse. This will ensure that everything is nice and clean, and that if something is plugging the oil passages, it gets flushed out. This has nothing to do with dino and synthetic oil mixing, there is nothing wrong with mixing the oils together, just don't deliberatle go mixing motor oils together, since the additives may get diliuted down.
 
#24 ·
Thats what my valve "ticking" problem was - too thin oil. I changed to synthetic oil and the valves started ticking. Then I changed back to the recommended 10W -30W oil weight, and the valve noise went away. I think the light weight oil drains out of the hydraulic lifters too fast during start up and causes the noise.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top