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Old 10-16-2006, 10:32 AM
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I checked the exhaust manifold quickly and saw no obvious problems, I'll have to do a more thorough check though.
The idle though still gives me worry. The past two mornings when I've started it the idle has gone as high as 2500 rpm and stayed there for about three minutes. When I give it a bit of gas it just revs higher and stays there. Putting it into gear, neutral and pressing the clutch in seem to have no effect, until I start driving then the engine revs normal, except for when I shift the rpm's return to their high state between gears. Maybe it's normal but combined with my gassy exhaust it's pretty unpleasant. This weekend I'll do a bunch of maintenance as far as filters and changing fluids, hopefully that will help.
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Check the wiring to the throttle position sensor as well. Sitting in the driver's seat, the front right corner of the top of the engine (valve cover) has an anchor where the throttle position sensor cable has a clip. Sometimes this can come apart inadvertently if it is bumped. Also, if that cable is grounded out anywhere along its path, that can cause the engine to behave in this manner.

If the clip is connected, try unplugging it and see if the engine behaves any differently. If there is no change, maybe the TPS is just bad. I hate to just plug in replacement parts though, the TPS is not cheap.
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:40 AM
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LOL, you have got that one right!!! I haven't found anything for this motor cheap or more appropiately called "affordable". I found a centerforce dual friction clutch for the 87-88 for a "measley" 250$, and for the 89-93, regular stage one, almost 500$!!!!!!!!!! Go figure!!
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:55 AM
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LOL, you have got that one right!!! I haven't found anything for this motor cheap or more appropiately called "affordable". I found a centerforce dual friction clutch for the 87-88 for a "measley" 250$, and for the 89-93, regular stage one, almost 500$!!!!!!!!!! Go figure!!
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...And, most of the time, I have traced problems to corroded connections, pinched / grounded wires, leaky hoses, etc - which is why I always hesitate to just start replacing parts, unless you know a junkyard that lets stuff go cheap. If you find a Mazda with the front end smashed in, you're pretty much guaranteed it was running pretty good when that happened. Then it's alot easier on the wallet to swap parts out.

Still, a good voltmeter and clean engine comp't can go a long way to solving lots of problems.

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Old 10-16-2006, 11:43 AM
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AMEN TO THAT!
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