Hard shifting, new clutch?

[justinae]

The other day I had to use a lot of force to get into any gear. Called a mechanic and they said to check fluid level of hydraulic clutch. It was low so when I filled it it helped. A couple days later it got really hard again, but this time it was full with fluid.

I'm new to hydraulic clutches and I'm told that this particular model you have to drop the transmission to replace the clutch.

But I wonder if it truly needs a whole new clutch or if there is some kind of adjustment or less invasive place to start. Quotes are coming in at over $800.

Some behavior. In the mornings it seems to shift with less effort. When it starts to get hard the clutch engages right off the floor and if I leave it in 1st gear at a light and push the clutch in, it wants to move forward kind of like an automatic.

Any help much appreciated.

[mam.haggis@hotmail.com]

There is an adjustment underneath the dash to lengthen or shorten the rod that pushes up against the piston in the master cylinder. Making the rod longer will help assuming that it has not reached the end of its adjustment.
You also probably need a new slave cylinder, the seal wears and it can't push the fluid anymore to disengage the clutch, the fluid just leaks by the seal. It's a common thing to wear out and is cheap to replace. I would also advise replacing the master cylinder as well, it's probably just as worn.
If the clutch does not slip, then it's fine. If a mechanic tells you it needs a new clutch before trouble shooting the slave and master cylinder, then he's trying to rip you off. He is correct though, that you have to drop the transmission to do a clutch job, but the problem of the clutch not disengaging is always slave and/or master cylinder problem. Keep in mind too that some air may have gotten into the line making the problem even worse. This can happen if the fluid level drops too low and air can enter the system. They can be tricky to bleed, a hand held vacuum pump makes is allot easier here. If you get a mechanic to do it, it's not a big deal to replace both cylinders and bleed the system, that will cure your problem.
The problem is better in the morning because the fluid and seals are cold and when they are like that, things have a tendency to work better.

[justinae]

thanks a lot! Really helpful info. Unfortunately I totalled the truck a week ago. Thankfully I hadn't replaced the clutch yet. Just out of curiosity, I thought that to replace the slave cylinder you had to take out the clutch, thereby making sense to just put in a new one?

thanks again!

[mam.haggis@hotmail.com]

WOW !! You totaled your truck, are you alright, I guess you must be if you're here.

The slave cylinder is held on with two bolts on the outside of the bell housing. If you follow the line down form the master cylinder it's very visible and you don't have to remove the actual clutch. The only time when it becomes necessary to change out the clutch is if it slips and/or the release bearing becomes too noisy to tolerate or it seizes up altogether.

[justinae]

yah i'm fine. pride is a little hurt. wet conditions and the truck just slid forever. pushed the radiator back into the engine. junk yard says they'll give me $850 for it.

good to know about the slave cylinder in case i end up with another mazda truck. mostly looking at rangers, but I guess it the same thing.

thanks again!

[mam.haggis@hotmail.com]

Don't bey an old Ranger, the valve train on them is terrible, they have a tendency to wear their valve guides. Most of them by now are rusted out pieces of crap.

Don't know about the new ones though.

[justinae]

What do you consider old? I"m looking at 1993 and newer, though there are a couple of late 80s models that seem in nice shape.