2000 Millenia S system install - Help Needed.

[millifan69]

I'll post pictures of the install process and completion once I'm all done.

[millyowner]

The factory Bose is pretty decent. The addition of some proper dome tweeters would make it almost perfect although without a subwoofer, there's nearly no output below about 40hz. I hope to connect the low-level outputs of my Pioneer headunit to the Bose amps somehow allowing me to keep the factory speakers and amps while replacing the headunit with a modern MP3 reader/XM radio setup.

With a HPF @ 80hz, the Bose speakers should have a cleaner sound and better power handling; I'll let my sub box and amp handle the lower two octaves. Also, subs sound so much more effective and "punchy" if the door and panel speakers aren't trying to generate the same frequencies. With a passive first-order LPF on the front and rear Bose speakers and the addition of compact dome tweeters on the A-pillers, it should significantly improve the sound staging and the mid-bass suckout problem between 250-700hz that needs all the help it can get. By filling that midbass hole, the subwoofer's sound integrates itself with the door and rear deck speakers seamlessly and makes the addition of the tweeters sound more natural. Can anyone tell this used to be a hobby of mine a while back?

Can't wait for the pics BTW.

[Saint_]

High-Efficiency, High-Energy MOS-FET Power Supply

Thats the thing i am talking about.. The problem is this is very inefficient and instead of producing audible sound, it uses the power from the battery to heat up the trunk Do you see any enfficiency figures or input current?

I process the files before burning cds. I lower that band little bit actually Personal preference..

The factory Bose is pretty decent. The addition of some proper dome tweeters would make it almost perfect although without a subwoofer, there's nearly no output below about 40hz. I hope to connect the low-level outputs of my Pioneer headunit to the Bose amps somehow allowing me to keep the factory speakers and amps while replacing the headunit with a modern MP3 reader/XM radio setup.

With a HPF @ 80hz, the Bose speakers should have a cleaner sound and better power handling; I'll let my sub box and amp handle the lower two octaves. Also, subs sound so much more effective and "punchy" if the door and panel speakers aren't trying to generate the same frequencies. With a passive first-order LPF on the front and rear Bose speakers and the addition of compact dome tweeters on the A-pillers, it should significantly improve the sound staging and the mid-bass suckout problem between 250-700hz that needs all the help it can get. By filling that midbass hole, the subwoofer's sound integrates itself with the door and rear deck speakers seamlessly and makes the addition of the tweeters sound more natural. Can anyone tell this used to be a hobby of mine a while back?

Can't wait for the pics BTW.
[/b]

[millifan69]

Ok I have most of the system installed. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the back of the 99-00 bose stereo. I'm having trouble finding the right leads. all I need is the main 4 - Red(Power), Orange(Illum), Yellow(Battery Backup), and Black(Ground)

[millifan69]

Ok I have most of the system installed. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the back of the 99-00 bose stereo. I'm having trouble finding the right leads. all I need is the main 4 - Red(Power), Orange(Illum), Yellow(Battery Backup), and Black(Ground)[/b]

Found the answer

[00SandMicaMilly]

I work with all types of audio equipment, I have my own shop in Michigan. In my Millenia this is my current set up:

4AWG power cable with Tsunami distribution block

RX100.4 Planet Audio 4 Channel amplifier running the following:
-Kenwood Excelon 6x8 front door speakers.
-Kenwood Excelon 6x9 in the rear
-Kenwood Excelon Tweeters with a full crossover network mounted inside the headliner (GREAT SQ)
-Quantum Audio Tweeters in the rear also with a crossover network.

RX3000 Planet Audio Class D Mono 1 OHM stable which puts out 2400W RMS to a JL Audio W7 12" in a custom tuned vented enclosure.

You should be able to run 4AWG with no problem but my advice is you upgrade your battery. A Optima Yellow Top would be perfect. All of the equipment mentioned is top of the line car audio by Eclipse so your interior speakers should be set.

If you want to set it off in the trunk, put the Type R 10 in a vented enclosure, and wire it down to 1OHM with a decent class D amplifier putting out about 700 watts. You never wanna max that speaker out because you will fry it and make sure your amplifiers are not turned up to high, this will cause nasty distortion levels when turning your radio up