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work at a mazda dealership, seeing several flooded RX8's coming in. any tips on the best way to get the darn things fired up? we don't have a mazda tech employed here at this time. (low paying shop.) the suits are trying to get me to commit to be the mazda tech. very leary of the mazda ways! had 3 other techs try to suceed. they failed. i think i'll just stick with lincoln mercury for now.
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you might want to check the RX8 boards... the only way we used to get the FD's and FC's to start when friends of mine flooded theirs would be to pull the plugs out real quick and bump the starter a few time so slosh out some of the fuel...
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1993 Acura NSX 1988 Mazda RX-7 10th Anniversary Turbo II |
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This happened to me a couple of weeks ago. I went out to start my car to go to work and NOTHING!! I tried what the manual told me to do and still nothing. We called a local Mazda dealer who called a towing service for us and it turned out to be a bulletin that they had, not a recall yet. They ended up putting different plugs in it, I think, and also something with the computer. I think they changed something with that also. I would have to look at my paperwork to tell you exactly what they did. They did not seem surprised that it had happened.
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unfortunatly a flooded rx-8 can be tough to deal wiyh, but its not really that bad.the easiest way to get one started is to pull the left front wheel,remove the small splash shield and remove the plugs,move the ignition wires up and out of the way.remove the fuse panel cover from under the hood(left front fender,front.remove the 2 blue relays that are most forward to the front of the vehicle. these are the f-pump high and low speed relays.crank the engine over,to get the raw fuel out of the rotor housings.re-install the relays,and replace all 4 plugs,or clean the old plugs using salt or sugar in the blast unit. strictly no sand! crank the engine over, do not hit the throttle.once the engine starts,nurse it up to a high rpm,dont stand on the throttle.doing this will help prevent catalyst damage. if the vehicle still wont start, continue by pulling the relays cranking with wide open throttle and reinstalling.hopfully this helps.
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you guys have got to be out of your minds buying a car that would require steps like that just to get it started...
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1993 Acura NSX 1988 Mazda RX-7 10th Anniversary Turbo II |
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Indeed that suck
or follow the mazda TSB http://www.finishlineperformance.com/rx8/d...11-04-1273d.pdf |
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if you can't find it, can email, post link back for this vid (as i saved in my favorite vids a few years back !? also in my experince, brisk full feathering of the throtle 10 or 12 times before cranking, and during cranking always fires them up ! (had 2 rx8 that flood real bad all time, this routine always got me fired up) |
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Sorry about the late post to this issue, but I just joined today. When my son's RX8 would not start, I spent the better part of a week trying different options until I finally found the right combination to get it cranked and going again. Because of my troubles, I documented the exact steps that I took to guarantee success if it ever happened to him again. I typed this and placed it in his owner's manual, intended to be used instead of the factory steps that just did not make as much sense and did not provide results.
Mazda RX8 De-flooding Procedure (better definition than provided in Owner’s Manual on page 7-20) Perform these EXACT steps, in order, before battery becomes weak from repeated attempts. 1. Depress accelerator pedal to the floor. 2. Rotate ignition key to START position for no more than 10 seconds. 3. Return key to OFF position. 4. Release accelerator pedal AFTER returning ignition key to OFF position. 5. Wait 20 seconds to allow starter to cool/recover. 6. Repeat steps 1 – 5 until car starts. This procedure WILL WORK if your car is flooded, usually caused by not running the engine long enough to allow the injector “bowl” to burn accumulated starting fuel. This is a common occurrence and seems to happen more often in cold weather. With the accelerator pedal fully depressed, the fuel is cut-off, allowing the cranking action to clear the accumulated fuel. If you release the pedal early or don’t hold it down completely, you will allow the normal starting fuel to again be injected, possibly resulting in additional flooding. While performing step 2, you will hear the engine attempt to crank, and it will eventually fire. Once fired, expect a LARGE amount of smoke with possible spitting/sputtering from the engine. It may be necessary to accelerate the engine to keep the idle up until the excess fuel is burned. A steady 2000 rpm engine speed will help and the smoking will stop after a few minutes. Once started after flooding, DO NOT stop the engine until the engine is sufficiently warmed, as indicated by the temperature gauge at normal mid-scale position. To prevent this from happening, ALWAYS warm the car, as indicated by the temperature gauge at normal mid-scale position, during COLD weather. |
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