S hesitation + stalling - Page 2 - Mazda Forum
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 08:51 AM
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Check your vaccum with a vaccum gauge. If it's below 18 you will have issues. With throttle response among other issues. The vaccum system on the S sucks ass and must be maintained to the highest levels. That means all vaccum lines,solenoids and T's.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the lines a few months back. I'm going in this weekend to quadruple check the vacuum rats nest. I'm certain there are no leaks, I'm at 23 mmHg, but I've ruled **** near everything else out.

If I don't find any issues, it's off to Upull to grab an EGR valve (or at least the EGR position sensor)
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-20-2018, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ohmed the EGR valve position sensor, it ohms room temp not depressed at about 4k and fully depressed at 40k, did I find my problem?! Anyone familiar with the normal readings?
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 07:10 PM
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Check to see what your vacuum is starting at the pump then working to your fuel pressure regulator and then solenoids. It should read at about 20 to 25 inches if vacuum. Anything less than 18 it will though codes and the car will go into limp mode while driving. Also what spark plugs did you install? Because the Miller cycle engine does not like anything other than the factory plug. Iridium's work but must be gapped to spec. If the car is pinging then you are either running the wrong gas or have an incorrect spark plug gap.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 07:15 PM
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This has helped me out a lot
milleniatech.net
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 10:52 PM
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Hey Jon,

I am experiencing similar problems and was wondering if you were able to get to the bottom of it?
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-13-2018, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Clayton,

It seems that these are very common symptoms with these engines. I have yet to dig into it since my hiatus from the thread. The car is parked in my fathers shop and I have been replacing the suspension. Front is done, brakes and body work next before I dig back into the engine.. by then, I'll have so much money in the thing I'll be determined to get it running right.

From what so many of these threads have concluded, vacuum is very important to this car. My problems began with a busted tee, and continued after I replaced all lines/solenoids. I grabbed an EGR position sensor from a Upull yard and it ohmed the same, so I've ruled that out. It's possible that after all the messing around the engine bay that some wiring was messed up, but I'm just hypothesizing. I'll hopefully tear the motor down this winter and get to the bottom of things. Not sure what to tell ya bud, these engines are a trip. If I reach any breakthroughs, I'll let the forum know.

Cheers
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