Complete Guide to changing all coolant hoses on 2.3 with pictures - Page 2 - Mazda Forum
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post #11 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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New Gasket:

OE Part Number KJ01-13-655
- or - wipe it clean and spray with Copper Gasket Maker spray

I bought a new gasket. But the original one was still in great condition. You could probably just wipe the old one down to remove the oil, and give it a spray with Copper Gasket Maker Spray, and reuse it. Here is a picture of the old gasket, and the new gasket still in the plastic bag from Mazda sitting right next to it. The old one still looks great after 13 years. But I figured I might as well replace everything new since this was going to be so much labor.



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post #12 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Removing Throttle Body Hoses:

OE Part Number KJ01-13-682A

This next one isn't that bad. I connects to the lower part of the Throttle Body. Remove that small hose and replace.






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post #13 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Removing EGR Hose that is behind Throttle Body:

OE Part Number KJ01-13-693

Now this second hose is harder than the first. The only way I could remove the hose clamp that is up high next to the fuel pressure regulator was to remove the rear intercooler and use a long 18 inch needle nose pliers. Here are a few pictures of that one. It is kind of hard to get in there. This hose is connected to the metal tube that goes to the EGR that is right next to the fuel pressure regulator. The other end goes to the Main Water Pipe that is connected to the Thermostat Housing. At the top of the first picture, you see the metal nipple with the hose removed and the hose clamp moved down. At the bottom of the second picture, you see where I am pushing the hose off the Main Water Pipe with a flat head screwdriver. The third picture shows the final installation of the hose. In the first and third picture, look to the immediate right of the hose. You see a second hose with a green stripe around it. That is the fuel hose that connects to the fuel pressure regulator. You can use that hose as reference to find where the coolant hose is. The coolant hose runs to the immediate left of the fuel pressure regulator fuel hose.









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post #14 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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If you removed your Throttle Body:

If you removed your Throttle Body, now would be a good time to take a peek inside your supercharger. You can see the two lobes where the oil seals are. When you look inside, it should look nice and clean and dry (a little oil is okay). If it is all dripping wet with oil in there, then that would indicate the oil seals are leaking. Mine looked nice and clean and dry inside.



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post #15 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Coolant By Pass Hose:

OE Part Number KJ01-15-261
Aftermarket Gates Part Number 28474

Now that we are done with the Throttle Body Hoses, now is a good time to tackle the other hoses in that area since you have everything taken apart there.

For the Coolant By Pass Hose, just remove the two hose clamps, and cut that sucker off with a razor knife. Since that takes a lot of heat and pressure, it will most likely be frozen on. So take a razor knife to it, and a flat-head screwdriver. Just be careful with the razor knife, because there is a thick wiring harness that runs right along where the Coolant By Pass Hose is. Be careful not to slip and cut into that harness. You can see it in the picture, the harness runs right up next to the Coolant By Pass Hose.








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post #16 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Lower Hoses:

Now let's move on the the lower hoses. The Lower Radiator Hose, the Lower Coolant Sub-Tank Hose, and the Thermostat.

Lower Sub-Tank Hose:

That one is easy, just remove that hose clamp, it is right there and easy to access.



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post #17 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Lower Radiator Hose:

OE Part Number KJ01-15-185
Aftermarket Gates Part Number 21065

I removed the Coolant Sub-Tank and the Driver's side Fan to get better access to this area.

That gives you tons of room to remove the Lower Radiator Hose from the top. If you don't remove the Coolant Sub-Tank and Driver's side Fan, you probably won't be able to change the Lower Radiator Hose from the top, you would have to then remove the Driver's side splash shield and access that from under the car.



Sub Tank Hoses:

OE Part Numbers:
Sub Tank Hose (to Thermostat): KJ02-15-381A
Sub Tank Hose (to Radiator): KL47-15-383A

Here is a picture changing the Lower Sub Tank Hose. When you remove the Upper Sub Tank Hose, be careful and remove it carefully with a twisting motion. The Lower Sub Tank connection is reinforced with a brass insert, so it is sturdy. But the Upper Sub Tank hose is just a flimsy plastic nipple, that is easy to crack or break off. If you crack that, you get to replace the Sub Tank. Mine had a hair line crack and was leaking and crusty, so I replace the Sub Tank as part of this repair job.



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post #18 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thermostat:

OE Part Number KL-15-171A
Aftermarket - Stant XACTstat part number 48478
Aftermarket - Gates part number 34014

To access the thermostat, remove the two bolts holding the bottom of the housing. The thermostat is inside that housing. Now would be a good time to change the thermostat, since you are right there and are changing the Lower Radiator Hose. I changed my Thermostat with an aftermarket. I used the Stant XACTstat. It was the one with the gasket include and the jiggle pin. If you get the cheap aftermarket, it won't have the gasket. So you have to buy a new gasket separately or risk it leaking. Also, the cheap aftermarkets don't have the jiggle pin, which will make it extremely difficult to burp the air out of the system. If that is the case and you bought the cheap version without the jiggle pin, then drill a small 1/16 inch hole where the jiggle pin is suppose to go. Better yet, get either the Stant XACTstat or the Gates that is exact fit. Make sure if you go aftermarket, you get the high end model with gasket include and jiggle pin. Don't skimp out and get the cheap one with no gasket or jiggle pin, you will be sorry if you do. Also, the high end ones are hefty and heavy grade steel. The cheap ones are flimsy steal and won't last. I have heard reports that people have ordered OE thermostats from the Dealer, and they were given the cheap thermostat, not the high end original one that came with the car. So I bought the aftermarket Stant. The packaging said Made in Japan on that, and it looked exactly like the one I took out of the car that was original. So the Stant seems to be an OEM type quality. If you go aftermarket, get only the Stant or Gates parts listed above, don't get any other part, it will be cheap quality metal, no gasket, and no jiggle pin. Also, when you remove it, you will notice it is installed "upside down". Make sure you install the new one in this same "upside down" orientation, that is how it is suppose to go.



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post #19 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Heater Hoses:

OE Part Numbers:
Heater Hose (includes Quick Connect): TA16-61-24XA
Heater Hose (includes Quick Connect): TA16-61-24YB

Aftermarket:
Gates Part Numbers 19264 and 19265 for the Hoses
Gates Part Number 28500 for the Quick Connects (You need quantity 2 of this)

Very Important! Don't just replace the rubber hoses, make sure you also replace the Quick Connects. If you buy OE, then the Heater Hoses come with new Quick Connects. If you buy aftermarket, then the Heater Hoses don't come with new Quick Connects, you have to buy those separate. Those are plastic, and blow out, so you need to replace those as part of the Heater Hose replacement. The Quick Connects are what connect to the aluminum heater core nubs. Then the rubber hoses connect to the Quick Connects. The Quick Connects click on in 2 seconds, but they take 20 minutes of fighting to get them off. You basically have to break off or bend out those two little white plastic (yellow plastic on OE) clips that are right near the firewall. What make this hard is that you have to break them or bend them out, while not damaging the aluminum heater core nubs. So it takes about 20 minutes to carefully do this. Once you have battled them off, then new ones just click on in 2 seconds. So I call them "Quick Connects"/"Slow Disconnects".

These are the only hoses I bought aftermarket, because I did them two weeks ago. So this picture is of the new Quick Connects and new Heater Hoses. The shorter of the two Heater hoses that goes down to the engine block was all bubble up and soft, ready to blow. Both Quick Connects were leaking and crusty, also ready to blow.




One of the Hoses goes straight down to the back of the engine block. That one is right there and easy to get to. It helps to move the Power Steering reserve out of the way to get more room to work, two bolts to move that over. The other Hose goes along the back, then turns in towards just below the Throttle Body. If you are only changing the Heater Hoses, you don't need to strip down everything to the Throttle Body like the pictures shown earlier. All you need to remove in that specific case is just the Battery, then you have access to this Hose. Everything is striped down in this picture, because I was doing the Throttle Body Hoses. But when I did it two weeks ago, I only removed the Battery to gain access to this spot. Also, you see that protective sheath about midway in the hose. They sell that separately from the Dealer, but I just slipped it off the old hose, and slipped it onto the new hose, it is reusable. I think the reason it is there is because it rides just under the rear intercooler, and it would potentially rub on the intercooler fins that would act like a knife over the years and cut the hose. The intercooler has been removed in this picture, but you can see from the where the connection for the intercooler is that it would be touching and rubbing this hose. So you need to put that protective sheath back on the new hose.



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Last edited by mazda-fla; 06-26-2012 at 10:11 AM.
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post #20 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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EGR Hoses:

OE Part Number KJ01-13-691

Now let's move over to the EGR hoses. First you are going to have to loosen a couple of the CAC bolts near the firewall. Then remove that one single bolt that holds the grounding point and that cluster of solenoids behind the EGR. So you can push it out of the way. You also have to remove the EGR by removing the large 25mm nut and the other two nuts.

First, give yourself some extra room by removing the two nuts that hold the Power Steering reserve and push it out of the way. (P.S. doing this also helps when changing the one Heater Hose on that side, it gives you more room to work with).



Now, that gives you room to reach way down and remove the EGR hose that goes into the engine block.



Then remove the hose on the EGR side.






This hose was completely trashed where it goes into the engine block side. Ready to blow any time now.



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Last edited by mazda-fla; 06-26-2012 at 10:08 AM.
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