Complete Guide to changing all coolant hoses on 2.3 with pictures - Page 3 - Mazda Forum
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post #21 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Other small EGR hose:

OE Part Number KJ01-13-692

Now, time to move to the other side of the EGR. You have to basically move the big cluster of solenoids around where the bolt goes into the grounding. Move it to the one side to get access to the short hose near the engine, then move it to the other side to access to where the short hose goes to the EGR.

Push it over as a complete unit.




Now, you can see the hose. Remove it and replace it. A little tricky, so just push things around until you can get at it.






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post #22 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Upper Radiator Hose:

OE Part Number KJ01-15-186
Aftermarket Gates Part Number 22459

Okay, this is probably the only easy hose to change on the entire car. Here is a picture.



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Last edited by mazda-fla; 06-26-2012 at 10:03 AM.
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post #23 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Cooler Hoses:

Oil Cooler Hose (in): KL47-15-536A
Oil Cooler Hose (out): KJ01-15-546

One of these hoses is easy to get at, the other one is the worst hose on the entire car to change. Of course, the workshop manual gives no instructions on how to change it, so I had to figure it out myself.

The way I see it there are two options. Option 1 would be to probably remove the entire oil cooler and filter assembly (and probably the front exhaust manifold heat shield) and get at if from under the car (provided it is jacked up really high or on a lift). The other Option 2, to get it from the top. I did this since everything so far I got from the top. Remove the Front Intercooler, then remove the Passenger's side Fan. Then remove the Upper Radiator Hose. That gives you a lot of room to work.



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post #24 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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First, let's start with the easy hose, which is this one:




Now, when you remove that hose, about a half gallon of antifreeze is going to be pouring out, so have a container under the car to catch that. See this picture for it rushing out. If you look in the Owner's Manual or Workshop Manual, it even says to remove this hose after you remove the radiator drain plug when doing a standard antifreeze change. This is probably because you get a lot more antifreeze out when you pull this hose compared to just removing the drain plug alone. Pulling this hose must drain most of the antifreeze out of the block.



The hose was soft with a bubble where it goes into the engine block.



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post #25 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Now, on to the hardest hose to change in the entire coolant hose system on the 2.3. I saved the best for last.

Here it is. It is up really deep. You cannot see this hose at the top, I had to stick my camera up in there to take the picture. The only way to see it is with a light and a mirror, you can also do it by feel. This hose also has some kind of plastic heat shield on it or something. That is sold separately, but can be reused. Just slide if off the old hose, and slide it on the new hose.

It looks easy from this picture, but it is not. It is really deep in there, and you cannot see it. You have to change this hose "by feel", or with a complicated system of mirrors and lights.



You can see the hose clamp in this picture. The only way to get it is with about a 12 inch long needle nose pliers. You can NOT reach it with a regular needle nose pliers. You also can NOT reach it with a really long needle nose pliers (like 18 inch), because the radiator would then be in the way. I almost was going to pull the radiator and move the condenser forward, because then you could almost lay over the car and stick your head in there and see it to change it. You can also see the oil pressure sending unit and oil filter/cooler housing. You could probably remove that entire housing and go at it from the underside. I also left the first (easy hose) off, and unpluged the oil pressure sending unit connector and moved it out of the way. So I had more room to work with.



Here are some of the tools used for this hose. A mid-sized needle nose plier. A hose plier. An inspection mirror. But mainly I used the mid-size needle nose plier, and did everything by feel. The hose plier should really only be used to remove hoses that you plan on replacing, they shouldn't really be used to install new hoses because you could tear them up. Better to hand install the new hose.

It took a while just to figure out how to go after this hose. The way I found was to be on your knees, with belly against the bumper. Then reach over the radiator, with palm of your hand facing upwards. Then bend your elbow down, and reach in there with your hand with palm up. Then you can feel the clip with your fingers. Then when you can kind of put together a mental image of where the clip is, you can stand back up and use one hand to push the plyer back in there and kind of guide with the other hand. Then when you squeeze the plier, you can feel when you have the clip because of the backforce the clip will push back on the plier. Then make sure you have the clip pressed tight, and then wiggle the clip to back it out.



Here is another view of the clip:




When I twisted it off, the end of the rubber hose snaped off and left a nub of the hose on the connector.



So, I had to get a small flathead screwdriver with a long handle, and use the mirror. I inserted the screwdriver between the rubber hose and the metal connector. Then gently pryed it all around in a circle to crack the seal on the rubber and pop it loose. Then reached in with my hand and twisted it off.

Here is a picture of the metal connector after I popped off the rubber nub left from the hose:



Here is the hose taken off. This was another one that was in bad shape, especially the end of the hose that was clipped to the engine block side.





You can reuse this protector from the old hose. Just remove it and move it over to the new hose.



Here is the final assembly. I didn't use the hose plier to install it, because I didn't want to risk tearing it. So I reached in and pushed it on by hand and feel. It helps to dip the end of the hose in antifreeze, because that acts as a lubricant to help slip it on the metal connector.



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post #26 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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There you have it, a complete coolant hose change on the 2.3 Millenia. Here are all the trashed hoses that where changed. Except the picture is missing the two heater hoses I changed two weeks ago. I've never seen a car with so many little hoses in such hard to reach places before. But I guess that's the 2.3 for you.

Enjoy!



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Last edited by mazda-fla; 06-26-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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post #27 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 11:00 PM
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Mazda-fla, thank you so much for posting this!!! I'll be using it for reference very soon.
Some of those hoses were looking pretty scary.
How much do you think it cost you to purchase everything? How many miles on yours?

Last edited by spoiled2.3; 06-26-2012 at 02:35 AM.
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post #28 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-26-2012, 02:00 AM
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post #29 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-26-2012, 08:29 AM
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excellent write up, excellent pics. i gave up on the oil cooler hose, and i even got a 2.5 oil filter head to eliminate the cooler, but it is still on the table
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post #30 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-26-2012, 02:15 PM
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Guide of the year award!!

Just to warn anyone who wants to attempt. This is a lot of work. So I would change any related hose whenever it is opened up for something else.

Which hoses do you think are most prone to fail first?

2001 Mazda Millenia S 196k Brilliant Black

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Last edited by Saint_; 06-26-2012 at 02:18 PM.
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