Complete Guide to changing all coolant hoses on 2.3 with pictures - Page 6 - Mazda Forum
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post #51 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 01:41 PM
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This weekend I changed the subtank, its lower hose, bypass hose and heater hoses. Subtank and bypass hoses were straight forward. Nothing to add. I spent most of my time trying to remove the passenger side heater hose. The engine side clamp is buried in there and removing the steering fluid reservoir bolts gives little clearance. The hose had a big bulge that blocks the clamp. I cut the hose but still fitting pliers to remove the clamp was a challenge. I gave up on Saturday and could only remove it on Sunday morning. I also had to remove the rear IC to get more room for the pliers.

I cut the outer black piece of the quick connects to remove them. I had to remove the solenoid holder on top of them (what is the function of that heavy piece other than holding one solenoid?). Removing the middle nut was a challenge.

Anyone who attempts to do this should have all kinds of pliers. I have at least 6 different sizes. I dont have bent long nose pliers. Maybe that was what I was missing.

My subtank had a hairline crack where it connects to the lower hose (classic). Passenger side heater hose was is bad shape, leaking and bulged out. Others were in good shape.

I pour the coolant slowly as the manual says (1 qt/min). Drive it a little bit and fill it up. I put around 1.6 gallons now and expect to put some more this week when the level goes down again. I dont think I will have any air in the system eventually.

2001 Mazda Millenia S 196k Brilliant Black

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Last edited by Saint_; 01-20-2014 at 01:44 PM.
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post #52 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 02:36 PM
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you need to change the resevoir soon. the crack will get bigger, and because the system pressurizes, you will start losing more and more coolant.
on another note, i just bought a really nice used heater box, with the heater core in it. and those "quick disconnects" are a beyatch even with the core out of the housing. i never changed them on the car, i just pulled or cut off the heater hoses, and left the pos quick disconnects still on the core. what a dumb idea, thanks ford. i have a nice set of 18" needle nose pliers, and another 90 deg, and they are great for the spring clamps. i now prefer the factory spring clamps over the screw on type, and i have been scrounging up spring clamps to put back on when i am in that area. you should change out the breather hoses, too. i know one of them is now nla.
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post #53 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 02:46 PM
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I changed the reservoir (subtank is what it is called?).

Quick connects were not too bad since I prepared myself. I just cut the small black piece that holds them in place. My passenger side q-connect was leaking. I actually even bought this tool that is supposed to remove them in a sec. Of course there is no space for the tool. Design is bad but Mazda is worse than Ford because they put them in a way that they are not serviceable.





90degree pliers will definitely help. Having 45degree in hand may save some curses too.

What is breather hose?

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post #54 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 04:36 PM
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I changed the reservoir (subtank is what it is called?).

Quick connects were not too bad since I prepared myself. I just cut the small black piece that holds them in place. My passenger side q-connect was leaking. I actually even bought this tool that is supposed to remove them in a sec. Of course there is no space for the tool. Design is bad but Mazda is worse than Ford because they put them in a way that they are not serviceable.

Lisle (LIS39890) 3 Piece Angled Disconnect Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive


90degree pliers will definitely help. Having 45degree in hand may save some curses too.

What is breather hose?
breather hoses are whatever air goes thru. like the ones for the iac valve. when i did the hoses, i could not complete the job for several weeks. i kept finding a hose that was not on the list, and i had to order it from tasca, wait a week, yada, yada. i finally went thru the epc, and listed all the hoses i could find, and ordered them. a couple were nla. also, i got these pliers from sears when they were like half off:
Sears.com
i almost didnt buy them, because i didnt think i would ever use them. but the price was right. a couple of times, they saved me. having the right tool can make all the difference in the world
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post #55 of 59 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 08:47 PM
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Hi mazda-fla, this is a very excellent post for the change of hoses.But my coolant leaking deadly but I can not locate where it leaks. when I pour water into the radiator, I can tell the water leaking out from some where through the water pump pulley,it streamed along the drive belt. and when I drive it, there has metallic noise under the engine, the engine will be overheat if more than 5 miles. Is that water pump leaking or there is some hose whose outlet is near the water pump pulley? thanks very much for your any information.
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post #56 of 59 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 09:46 PM
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it could be that the water pump is bad. there is a seal in the pump, and when it wears, the impeller will chew up the pump. a water pump job on a 2.3 is pretty stout. you have to remove the timing belt, too, so plan on changing the timing belt and all associated items. DO NOT forget the 2 orings on the crossover pipe, or you will be doing it all over. a LOT of stuff has to come off. removing the actual pump is kind of a puzzle, there is a sheet metal cover that has to come off at the same time, you will see what i mean when you do it. or your mechanic will. if you pay to have this done, it will cost a lot.
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post #57 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-05-2015, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by keninn View Post
it could be that the water pump is bad. there is a seal in the pump, and when it wears, the impeller will chew up the pump. a water pump job on a 2.3 is pretty stout. you have to remove the timing belt, too, so plan on changing the timing belt and all associated items. DO NOT forget the 2 orings on the crossover pipe, or you will be doing it all over. a LOT of stuff has to come off. removing the actual pump is kind of a puzzle, there is a sheet metal cover that has to come off at the same time, you will see what i mean when you do it. or your mechanic will. if you pay to have this done, it will cost a lot.
Thanks very much, Keninn, I think it's so hard. I give it up. just as the lyric sing: Let it go, let it go, can't hold any more.
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post #58 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-23-2018, 11:38 PM
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Thanks for this post...im currently trying to cnge mine now
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post #59 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-23-2018, 11:38 PM
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oh quick quest...any reasons why I cant see the pics?
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