'93 Protege has slow battery drain - Mazda Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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'93 Protege has slow battery drain

My good old '93 Protege DX SOHC has been a trooper, now with over 430k miles. I replaced the engine at 350k, and it runs as strong as ever. I have had some radiator fan problems, where the fan will not stop running even after the ignition switch has been turned to the "OFF"/"Lock" position and the key removed (after the usual time to cool the hot engine/coolant after running with the A/C on during hot summer days), but I thought I had fixed that problem for some time.

Now, it seems that even with the switch turned to the "Off"/"Lock" position and the key removed, when I test the main fuseblock fuses under the hood, I'm still getting 12 volts going through the female connectors in the fuseblock, when I remove the fuses, and put my voltmeter leads into some (not all) of the female connectors that the male fuse connectors insert into. In particular, there are "hot" female connectors in one of the big "Cooling Fan" (not the 30A "Cooling Fan" fuse on the right side of the fusebox) connectors, and one of the big "Fuel Inj" connectors. My radiator cooling fan immediately starts up when I turn the ignition switch to the "On" position, even with a completely cold engine.

The result of all this seems to be that over a fairly short period of time, even a brand new battery will become completely discharged, even to the point of not being able to take a charge again. Now, I have to disconnect the negative battery cable/terminal completely to keep the battery from losing almost 0.5V (i.e., from 12.50 volts on my voltmeter to 12.00 volts or less) PER DAY (i.e., overnight or in a 24 hr period). I know that even good batteries lose a little charge when you don't start and run a car for a long period (i.e., over 30 days or more), but this drain actually will kill a new battery in just a week or less.

I want to sell the car to a man who can appreciate its otherwise fine, economical operation, and needs basic transportation badly, but I don't want to sell it until I fix this electrical issue.

Any ideas of how to go about troubleshooting this problem? I have a Haynes Service Manual for the car...will be looking into it as I await any suggestions or ideas from the forum!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-06-2018, 07:22 PM
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As a temporary solution I would take out main switch and or negative terminal.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-06-2018, 07:26 PM
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And to point you in right direction do a parasitic draw testhe.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 07:15 AM
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Yeah, I'm with Highrambe on this one to do a parasitic current draw test.

First, set a multimeter to DC Amps. Place the red test lead in the 10A banana plug socket. Disconnect the Neg. of the battery and connect the multimeter in series between the Neg. battery terminal post and the clamp connector you just disconnected.

With all electrical accessories turned off and the key removed from the ignition, see what the parasitic draw is. In your case this will probably be high (several hundred mA.... e.g. 0.25 Amps). Next step is to plug out fuses one by one while keeping an eye on the DMM reading. The faulty circuit can be identified when you see a big drop in the DMM reading (e.g. 0.25 Amps suddenly dropping to 0.03 Amps).

Don't forget to check for any installations of aftermarket security devices and car alarms. Some of these units are quickly installed using those poor quality snap-on splice connectors; and at other times they are incorrectly connected directly to the battery instead of through the fuse box or an inline fuse holder.

2002 GSi A/C 323F, 1598cc, ZM Engine, Manual Transmission, ODO 140k miles.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-04-2018, 09:55 PM
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Also if there has been an aftermarket stereo or amp installed make sure it’s installed correctly or it will draw constant power even with the vehicle off. Bought a Ford F-150 not to long ago had this problem.
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