1992 B2600i 4x4 SE5 AC Conversion from R12 to R 134 - Mazda Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-20-2018, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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1992 B2600i 4x4 SE5 AC Conversion from R12 to R 134

Needless to say, the air conditioning in my truck has not been working for about five years it was a slow leak eventually got to the point where I couldn’t charge anymore, and ran out of R12. I decided to go ahead and do a conversion kit, I bought on rock auto, which includes the expansion valve, the compressor, a new dryer and all new seals. I had my mechanic put everything in, it still will not cool that well it makes it bearable inside but that is about it. If you take a garden hose and spray water on the condenser it will cool off like it normally should so I asked around as well as my mechanic and the various opinions of the folks I’ve spoken with say I need a new condenser (original one is small but still functions. The condenser for R134 after market is not longer available for this truck. I need to find one that will fit from another vehicle if that has been done please advise, i’m trying to avoid a major conversion can work with something that I can get close . The other idea was to get an additional electric fan which would help cool off the condenser or add both in some cases....

Would love to know if anybody out there has done this and what exactly they did to get it to cool off the way it should. I realize the 134 sucks but that’s what we have, further the brand new stuff on the market is the 1234 that has come out, and it’s astronomically expensive!

Please advise...
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-21-2018, 10:15 AM
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Well, I would've kept it R-12, still available and legal to use in the USA; there actually is a glut of R-12 as few vehicles on the road still use it (my 1988 B2200 in Arizona is one). Yes, R-12 is more expensive than R134a, but your system only uses 2 lbs, and R-12 is not consumed.


R134a uses a different type of refrigeration oil, hope your mechanic cleaned that out as good as he could. All told, staying R-12 was likely cheaper overall if you live in USA.


That said: the conversion has been made. I know someone in Las Vegas, one in San Antonio, and one in Florida who are satisfied with the R134a conversion in their B-trucks, and it gets pretty hot there too. If the mechanic installed a new expansion valve, then he had the evaporator out of the dash so at least observed that it was clean.



Post both the low side and high side pressures at about 1500 rpm. Then mist the AC condenser with water from a garden hose, and see if the high side pressure drops like a rock. A good fan clutch and all radiator shrouding is a must on these trucks. Also make sure that the cable-operated flaps in the dashboard are not allowing hot air from the heater or outside the truck to mix with your AC air flow.



Ask the mechanic how many oz. R134a he added too.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-21-2018, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cussboy View Post
Well, I would've kept it R-12, still available and legal to use in the USA; there actually is a glut of R-12 as few vehicles on the road still use it (my 1988 B2200 in Arizona is one). Yes, R-12 is more expensive than R134a, but your system only uses 2 lbs, and R-12 is not consumed.


R134a uses a different type of refrigeration oil, hope your mechanic cleaned that out as good as he could. All told, staying R-12 was likely cheaper overall if you live in USA.


That said: the conversion has been made. I know someone in Las Vegas, one in San Antonio, and one in Florida who are satisfied with the R134a conversion in their B-trucks, and it gets pretty hot there too. If the mechanic installed a new expansion valve, then he had the evaporator out of the dash so at least observed that it was clean.



Post both the low side and high side pressures at about 1500 rpm. Then mist the AC condenser with water from a garden hose, and see if the high side pressure drops like a rock. A good fan clutch and all radiator shrouding is a must on these trucks. Also make sure that the cable-operated flaps in the dashboard are not allowing hot air from the heater or outside the truck to mix with your AC air flow.



Ask the mechanic how many oz. R134a he added too.

Thanks for reply, he indeed did the hose trick, cools right off. He found my fan clutch was bad, I already replaced it, no change. He cleaned the evaporator so no issue there. I drove from Jax back home this past weekend, coolest it would get is 77 see pic.....so if I need a bigger condenser what will work, haven’t located one for 134? How about adding an electric fan in addition to the other, and keep the old condenser?
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Last edited by Tendo; 06-21-2018 at 06:51 PM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-21-2018, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Cussboy View Post
Post both the low side and high side pressures at about 1500 rpm. Then mist the AC condenser with water from a garden hose, and see if the high side pressure drops like a rock. A good fan clutch and all radiator shrouding is a must on these trucks. Also make sure that the cable-operated flaps in the dashboard are not allowing hot air from the heater or outside the truck to mix with your AC air flow.

Ask the mechanic how many oz. R134a he added too.

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